Thursday, March 24, 2011

Madeira-A Feast for the Eyes







One of the most beautiful places I have ever visited.

Funchal, Madeira’s beauty simply took my breath away. It is the perfect port city to visit because it combines beauty, history, hospitality, and ease of access, all into one spectacular package.

It is eternally spring in this small, peaceful, volcanic island that features soaring cliffs, clear blue water, stunning mountains, deep canyons, and prolific city gardens with breathtaking displays of flowers rarely seen outside Hawaii and the Pacific Islands. There are beautiful gardens EVERYWHERE and Funchal was awarded the 2000 competition for Greening and Flowering of Towns. Also, it was recently voted cleanest city in Portugal.

We took the full circuit of the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus tour. The bus transported us through the beautiful harbor, through the winding streets of the old quarter, then, high into the mountains atop all the lush green flora and past beautiful residences that overlook the harbor. We climbed as high as the cable car ride.
On the tour, we learned about how Funchal was an important supply point on transatlantic trade routes leading to the Americas, Africa, and India because the predominant trade winds naturally led ships here (and to the Canaries).

I am simply stunned by the beauty of this city that is a continuous feast for the eyes. I would visit Funchal, Madeira again in a heartbeat.

Canary Islands-- Las Palmas, Gran Canaria




The Canary Islands situated in the Atlantic Ocean, close to North Africa were at the crossroads of 14th century explorations of Africa, transatlantic trade, the sugar trade, and was even a stop by Christopher Columbus en route to the “Asia”. The Archipelago occupies a position that facilitates navigation toward the west due to its Trade Winds and sea streams. That is why expeditions would land here to stock up on supplies before crossing the Atlantic. Fought over and colonized by Italy, Portugal, France, England, and Spain, and ravaged by bands of pirates and buccaneers, it was eventually proclaimed a Spanish province in 1821.

Today, we visited the largest and most popular of the 7 Canary Islands, Gran Canaria. With its balmy, sunny climate, lots of coastline, laid back feel, and outdoor lifestyle makes it ideal for tourism, which produces 80% of the islands revenue.

Via Hop-On-Hop-Off tour bus, we toured Las Palmas, capital of the Eastern Provinces of the Canaries, (Santa Cruz de Tenerife is capital of the western provinces). First we took the entire hour long 9-stop (15 Euro) circuit tour. The scenery of the layers of multicolored houses across the mountain side was spectacular. This is a popular beach vacation destination among Europeans. The 2nd time around, we got off at stop 4—The Old City—where we visited the 16th century Cathedral de Santa Ana and the Casa de Colon. Casa de Colon is a museum that houses scale models, panels, nautical maps, navigational instruments, 15th century globes, caravel models, and geographic documentation of collections on 1) Christopher Columbus and his Voyages, and 2) Gran Canaria and the city of Las Palmas.

I especially enjoyed hearing (again) about how Columbus made 4 expeditions to seek a new route to Asia (NEVER KNOWING he arrived at lands unknown to Europeans), the role that trade winds played in guiding Columbus’ routes, the secret treaty (by the Pope) that gave most of the Americas to Spain and only Brazil (and a few small islands east of European mainland) to Portugal, and how entire families from the Canary Islands were forced to emigrate to various parts of the Americas to help Spain maintain its control of the region. The most popular emigrant destinations were Cuba, The Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, Buenos Aires, Montevideo, and Caracas. Venezuela is often called the 8th island of the Canaries and a high proportion of Cubans can claim Canarian ancestry.

By the way, it is believed that the Canary Islands’ name is derived from a kind of dog, popular on the island.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Tree-climbing goats en route from Agadir to Taroudant, Morocco











From our ship, we took a private excursion from the resort town of Agadir to Taroudant, a former imperial city called "Little Marrakesh". An hour-long bus ride complete with majestic scenery through a landscape of wild beauty with lush plains and past the snow-topped Atlas Mountains (as much as 1800 meters high) took us to Taroudant, a city surrounded by pink/tan mud walls, founded in the 16th century.

Unlike most Moroccan cities, such as Fez, Meknes, and Marrakesh, Taroudant does not have a real ville nouvelle; rather, almost the entire city is contained within the wall-- so you really get the feeling of stepping back in time and you gain a sense of what rural Moroccan life is all about.

The focal point of our journey was a stroll thru the walled-city filled with colorful images of streets lined with djellaba-clad woman and men, fish vendors, produce carts, cafes filled with men in gandouras relaxing with a cigarettes, and vendors selling wares from bike baskets—all with the backdrop of the Atlas Mountains and city ramparts. The streets were so chaotic and narrow, that at times, we had to constantly avoid cars, horse-drawn carriages, bikes, and other vehicles. Of note, the ramparts span 4 miles.


We felt rather conspicuous as a group of pale westerners led by our The djellaba-clad tour guide. The women, colorfully covered from head to toe, seemed particularly curious about me.

Our trip inside the central market was a treat for all the senses. As with all Moroccan towns, life here revolves around the market or souk, which buzzes with life amidst a mosaic of sights, sounds, smells, and textures. The daily Berber market sells spices, vegetables, clothing, household goods, pottery and other items. In the Arab souk, the emphasis is on handicrafts, terracotta, wrought iron, brass and copper, pottery, leather goods, carpets, and jewelry. Hassan directed us to certain stalls where spices and argan oil where specialties.

One of the highlights of the tour was seeing goats climbing Argan trees en route to Taroudant. We stopped to see the goats and were amazed that they actually climb up into the Argan trees. These special trees (unique to this area) produce a fruit with seeds that are rich in Vitamin E and important in the cosmetic industry, although the locals use the oil to replace olive oil. Goats are particularly fond of the trees and actually climb up into them to feed, which is quite a sight! In town, we visited a shop that sold a variety of healing products and cosmetics made from the prized Argan oil. On sight, were women grounding seeds from the argan fruit.

Of note, Agadir was completely ruined in an earthquake in 1960. Our tour guide, 2 years old at the time, was deeply affected by its impact his entire life, as the city took decades to recover.

On the way back, we drove up to the old Kabash that overlooks Agadir. The view of the coastline is spectacularly breathtaking. Camel owners offered rides and photo shoots with their colorful animals. I should have taken a shot while sitting on a camel with the blue sea and coastline below. Next time!!......

Our tour guide Hassan made it clear that Moroccans are Berber people, not Arabs, and therefore don’t harbor anti-American sentiments. Moroccans love their King and are generally satisfied with their traditional ways.

Just to think…..we almost did not visit Morocco. The last cruise did not stop because of country-wide protests held on February 20, a week before their sailing.

Abdou’s website with photos:
http://www.freewebs.com/khettabi/taroudant.htm

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Casablanca











Today’s visit from our cruise ship: Casablanca, Morocco

With 3.5 million residents, Casablanca is the 2nd largest city in Africa after Cairo. It serves as the commercial and financial capital despite its relative young age as a major city. It was only during the French protectorate of 1912-1956 that the city assumed its pivotal role in the Moroccan economy and grew from a village of just a few thousand to over 3 million inhabitants. The dream of a French governor in the early 20th century, the city is a modern, bustling, cosmopolitan center with skyscrapers, modern government buildings, and planned urban enclaves. Although very westernized, men and women are still segregated in most facilities.

The highlights of my day here were as follows:

Mosque Hassan II

First we took a taxi to the world’s 2nd largest mosque after the one in Mecca. Casablanca’s skyline is dominated by this massive edifice. It holds 25,000 worshippers inside and 80,000 outside. It also holds the world’s largest minaret. It was partly constructed on the water; we saw it emerge as the ship entered Casablanca waters. At one point, you can see the water through the glass floor.

Old Medina

Next, we took a taxi to the old Medina, a colorful market where merchants sell a conglomeration of fruits, vegetables, spices, meats, beans, grains, olives, clothing, pottery, crafted wood, fragrances, fabrics, shoes, berber crafts, jewelry, and many other items. “Mustafa” insisted on guiding us through the web of tiny streets that were a confusing maze of passageways. I enjoyed taking in all the sights, sounds, and smells of this lively medina.

I found the Moroccans to be warm and gracious.

In addition to their currency, the dirham, Moroccan vendors accept Euros, British pounds, and $ dollars.

In case you were wondering: Humphrey Bogart NEVER came here and the film Casablanca was shot entirely in Hollywood.

Friday, March 11, 2011

To Go Or Not To Go--THAT is The Question


It is possible (and maybe likely) that my Morocco/Canary Islands/Granada cruise will not go to Morocco. Since my only reason for choosing this cruise (on the Jade) was to add Morocco to my growing list of counties and places I have visited (55+), the prospect of not seeing Morocco is extremely unappealing.

Inspired by the recent nationwide protests in Tunisia, Egypt, Bahrain and others, Moroccan youth, used Facebook to mobilize citizens frustrated by status quo.

The result: On February 20, citizens in 52 Moroccan cities, in their “movement for dignity” protested the frustration of some Moroccans with a government they believe has done little to combat corruption. The protesters are demanding constitutional reform, the dissolution of parliament, and the lowering of food prices, among other things. Although it was reported that protests in al-Hoceima and other towns and cities were peaceful, acts of vandalism and looting took place after the rallies.


There are also many confirmations that the King of Morocco is loved by the people because of some of his progressive moves and, he is considered, after all, a descendant of the prophet Mohammed.

Later, I scoured the internet and discovered that future demonstrations were planned for every Sunday leading up to the grand protest (and ultimatum to the King) day: March 20. Guess who was scheduled to arrive in Casablanca on Sunday, March 20!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(Of note, this did NOT make mainstream news in the US)

At this point, I was convinced we would not touch Morocco.

Many of us on Cruise Critic (CC) discovered this news and began to chat and worry. We subsequently discovered a blogger on the February 25 sailing (on our Jade itinerary) who revealed The Jade DID NOT make it’s to scheduled Morocco stops on February 27 (Casablanca) and 28 (Agadir). They found out upon boarding the ship in Barcelona.

We all understand the cruise line’s decision to avoid Morocco for safety reasons. Yet, with the Mediterranean surrounded by 23 countries with more than 70 great port of call options, they substituted 1) a sea day and 2) Lanzarote, a teeeeny volcanic Canary Island that even Spaniards have never heard of and its part of SPAIN. We all felt this is unacceptable.

A CC campaign began where we mobilized to try to procure information directly from the cruise line while many expressed their views about the cruise lines LAME choice of alternates for Casablanca and Agadir: a sea day and Lanzarote!

Here are some of the Comments from CC posters: “I am only taking the cruise for Morocco”, “they should take us any way and we will use our judgment”, “why not Cadiz, or interesting ports in Italy or France”, “We Europeans don’t mind visiting more Canary Islands”, “Moroccans love their King so it’s not a dangerous protest”, “I have private pre-paid tours that I can’t cancel”, “I am calling the travel insurance company for a refund” and so on……


I must have invested more than 12 hours researching alternative ports, contacting the cruise lines, hotel, and Malaga private tour company, clarifying my insurance rules, calculating cruise and airline penalties, and even found two different and great cruises for great prices (that I put on hold).

I was MENTALLY exhausted.

After realizing how much trouble it would be to cancel, and the cost would be 20% of the total cost AND I’d be left with cruise line and airline credits (not cash) I decided to stick with the original plan.

Many others on CC agreed we will keep a positive attitude and enjoy whatever happens. We will all meet on our first sea day (March 19) in Le Bistro at 11AM

I will board my flight for Barcelona on March 15, spend 2 nights in that vibrant city then board my cruise on March 18 at 7PM. Only the crystal ball knows where it will take us on March 20 and 21.

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Morocco Tour March 21, 2011



I will take a private group tour with Abdou who lives in Taroudant, Morocco, next month.

In response to a question about possible instability and protests affecting our tour, he gave this reply:


"All is safe here, and as much as Moroccans want to bring a good change to Morocco, they stand united against any attempts to change the regime. We love the king and every one agrees about this.

There has been some talking about another peaceful demonstration late April, but nothing confirmed. Morocco however is different from other Arab countries and the people enjoy more freedoms so peaceful demonstrations are nothing new. The monarchy is also 12 centuries old and Moroccans care for this institution. Only concern we have is that there are always trouble-makers that would get in the middle of a peaceful march and make things look awful.'' Abdou

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Cruise to Morocco, Canary Islands, Granada, Spain SOON


I will take another cruise on my favorite NCL Jade ship to Morocco, The Canary Islands, and Granada Spain; round-trip from Barcelona. I will be in a mini-suite on the 11th deck.

Here is the itinerary:

March 16 and 17: I will spend two days in vibrant Barcelona
March 18 Ship leaves Barcelona
March 19 Day at sea
March 20 Casablanca
March 21 Agadir and Taroudant
March 22 Las Palmas, Canary Islands
March 23 Funchal, Portugal
March 24 Day at Sea
March 25 Malaga, Granada, visit Alhambra
March 26 Day at Sea
March 27 Back to Barcelona-Back to Miami

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