French Polynesia

French Polynesia, is an overseas collectivity of France, comprises 118 dispersed islands in the South Pacific, stretching for more than 2,000 miles. Divided into 5 island groups: the Austral, Gambier, Marquesas, Society and Tuamotu archipelagos, they're known for their coral-fringed lagoons and over-the-water bungalows. The islands also encompass white- and black-sand beaches, mountains, rugged backcountry and towering waterfalls.

 

First explored by Europe’s Ferdinand Magellan, in 1521, the Spanish, British, Dutch, and French all vied for possession.  It was declared a French protectorate in 1842. Catholic Missionaries began conversion within months of colonization.

 

French is the official language of French Polynesia

 

The Society Islands archipelago is composed of two separate groups, geographically and administratively: 1) the Windward Islands which include Tahiti, Moorea and Mehetia, and 2) The Leeward Islands that include Bora Bora, Huahine, and Raiatea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On this cruise, we visited Nuku Hiva, in The Marquesas Islands; Tahiti and Moorea, in the Society Islands; and Rangiroa in the Tuamotu Islands.

 

Day 16-FINALLY LAND-Marquesas Islands, where time stands still

Day 16 Marquesas Islands--Nuku Hiva-first of 4 French Polynesian port visits.

As we entered the picturesque port of Nuku Hiva, the Polynesian singers, musicians and dancers performed traditional numbers on the ship's bow, which was opened just for the sail-in. It was our first site of land in 9 days and was a feast for the eyes. I marveled at the scenic beauty and felt overcome with gratitude.

The Marquesas Islands are one of the five island archipelagoes in French Polynesia. There are 10 major islands with 4 teeny ones. Its beauty inspired artists, writers, and musicians including Paul Gauguin, Herman Melville, Robert Louis Stephenson, and Jack London. It is known for its prolifically tattooed residents, tiki wood carvings, lush landscapes, hospitality, breadfruit, laid back tempo, and sunny weather.  Also, in 2001, “Survivor” was filmed here in Nuku Hiva.

 

My visit included mountainous, lush Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas Islands and the second largest in French Polynesia, after Tahiti. We took tenders into Taiohae Bay, in a caldera, in the capital. French Polynesian Franc and US dollars (with bad rate.) I discovered later that U$ are accepted here.

 

Upon arrival, we were greeted by delicate and beautiful dancers and robust singers moving to the rhythmic beat of large drums.

We walked the mile-long harbor/bay which is like an open-air museum-surrounded by beautiful ancient statues. The highlights were:  1) a visit to the compound of Notre Dame church, the largest in the Marquesas Islands with elaborately carved wooden doors at the entrance and 2) the sacred site, Par Pae Piki Vehine, a seafront site dotted with ancient Tiki statues and carvings.

The views along the harbor front were specular!

We ran into lots of smiling, fellow cruisers.
 

There is one long road dotted with a few houses just off the bay and the occasional 4-wheel drive vehicle passed by.  Pedestrians were forced to walk on grass, on an unpaved path.  There were very few businesses open for business apart from several small cafes, bistros, and shops.

It’s of a bygone era: rustic, low tech, virtually vehicle-free, with few paved roads, and rare opportunities for an internet connection.

The sail-away party was fun as new and old friends gathered by the aft pool for drinks, snacks, to share how our day was spent, and to wave good bye to Nuku Hiva as the sunset and the moon rose.

Tonight we will turn the clocks back one more half hour.  Who ever heard of a half hour time zone change???????