Paris at last-18 years later
I finally reconnected with my beloved Paris after having
been away for 18 long years. It has
changed and so have I but I still felt at home.
In preparation for my trip, I spent weeks studying maps of
neighborhoods, reviewing the metro map and bus routes, watching YouTube travel
guides, and brushing up on my French by listening to French language CDs and
online programs, and more.
I also created a long list of more than 30 activities-each 1-4
hours in duration-in which to engage. Also,
I had a schedule of walking tours.
I kept this list with me at all times and slowly crossed off
items, one at a time. There are always
places I miss and I save them for the next trip.
As a result, I was well-equipped with a variety of ideas
about how to spend my time.
What I was not
prepared for was the 6 of 7 days of rain that I encountered, in this city known as an "open-air museum". Although the rain required me to dig deeply
into my contingency-plan-bag -of -tricks, I was nonetheless able to thrive; in
fact, I came, I saw, and I conquered.
Here are some of the highlights of my trip:
·
My hotel
was in a lively and interesting area of town. Specifically, I stayed in a small, boutique
hotel located only 10 minutes from Le Marais and Place des Vosges, and only 5
minutes from the bustling Bastille area. My metro line was #8 and it was a
quiet, one-line stop. Nearby, there was
a plethora of choices for dining, shopping, neighborhood grocers, cafes, and
boulangeries/pastisseries (bakeries).
The staff at my hotel was helpful and friendly.
·
I took 4
excellent walking tours conducted by smart, passionate, witty guides from a
company that offers 3-6 daily tours, rain or shine. They feature more than 20-themed tours. My small group tours cost 12 euros each. Here are the brief tour descriptions, of
tours I took, written by Paris-Walks.com:
THURSDAY 2:30pm The
Marais Circuit 2 Stories of royalty, mistresses and intrigue in this
beautiful historic neighborhood. On circuit 2 we explore the Northern side of
the Marais. Elegant classical mansions with graceful courtyards and gardens,
the old Jewish quarter with the picturesque rue des Rosiers, and the peaceful
place des Vosges, the city’s oldest square. Meet at metro St Paul There is
always an extra tour on Sunday.
|
The famous L'As du Falafel |
|
Saint Paul |
FRIDAY 10.30am Hemingway's
Paris Explore this charming district in the Latin Quarter with the old
houses of the Mouffetard market street, an impressive fragment of the medieval
city wall, and the lovely historic church of St Etienne-du-Mont. It is
associated with many writers: Joyce, Orwell, Balzac, Hugo, and Verlaine and immortalized
by Hemingway in A Moveable Feast. Meet at metro Cardinal Lemoine.
I took this tour IN THE RAIN!
SUNDAY 10.30am The
Village of Montmartre On this picturesque walk you will discover old
winding streets, the vineyard, artists' studios (Renoir, Lautrec, Van Gogh)
quiet gardens, historic cabarets, the place-du-Tertre with its artists and the
Sacré Coeur Basilica. Meet at metro Abbesses (use the station elevator, it is
quite deep!) (All year)
MONDAY 10.30am Ile
de la Cité and Notre Dame Read the stories in the medieval sculptures, and
hear how the cathedral was built. We explore the history and architecture of
the Island, the old streets, the flower market, quiet gardens, secret
courtyards and the poignant memorial to the deported. Meet at metro Cité.
BTW, Notre Dame turned 850 this year
|
Love Locks Bridge |
|
Lovers write names on lock and throw away key into Seine |
|
Kelly & Kim locked in love for 30 years!! |
|
Place Saint Michel |
|
Notre Dame Gargoyles |
·
La
Cuisine. I dined on some of my favorites including: steak frites,
crepes, sandwich grec, salade nicoise, quiche Lorraine, escargots, and fresh
baguettes and pain au chocolats--hot from the oven.
|
Dinner with Susanne and Steve Zimmerman |
|
16Euro formule |
|
Salade Nicoise |
·
Strolled
in some of my favorite neighborhoods and places such as Latin Quarter, Bastille
area, Mouffetard, Marais, Gare St Lazarre/Haussman, and Montmartre, I did A LOT
of walking, even when I used the metro for transportation.
- Seeing young lovers everywhere
·
Visited
the breathtaking and serene Jardin de Luxembourg. It was as much of a feast for the eyes as I
had remembered.
·
Took
great photos with (and of) Paris’ monuments, both daytime and nighttime.
·
Took
the metro and bus (28 rides total) all over Paris. Yes, the metro is the most convenient and
inexpensive method of traveling around the city. I also really felt “a part of” while joining
the masses on the daily trudge. It is
not glamorous, but it is authentic. I
used my Metro App to guide me on how to connect. A book of 10 metro tickets cost 13euros30. The single ticket price is 1,70€. (September 2013)
See excellent article on how to use the Paris Metro here:
·
Enjoyed
long, scenic city bus rides on routes that enabled me to see famous
sites such as the Opera house and famous plazas such as the Place de la
Republique, all above ground. This is obviously
a great alternative to taking the Metro because you are able to see all the
sights along the way. Also, whenever I
took the bus, it was never crowded. I could easily get two or four seats to
myself and I had ample room to take out my camera and snap sights along the
way. Bus line # 20 stopped right near my
hotel, at my metro stop: Chemin Vert. Of note, metro tickets are valid on city
buses.
·
Having a
meal from a pastry shop. My favorite
is to go window-shopping in a pastry shop and settle on a quiche Lorraine or
quiche with 3 cheeses, freshly baked, hot from the oven. These rich snacks cost under 3 euros.
|
Assorted quiches from my nearby boulangerie |
Visited my favorite
history museum of the city of Paris, Carnavalet. This museum showcases art and artifacts
of Paris with an emphasis on the Revolution and new republic periods. What I like most is the variety of artifacts
from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries including metal shop signs, guillotine miniatures,
personal items (hair combs, cutlery, pistols, hair of famous Parisians), and
portraiture.
·
Nightly strolls
through vibrant areas. Tops were lively
quartiers of St Michel area, Champs-Elysées, Bastille area, and Le
Marais.
Here are some observations
I made from the perspective of a former resident who had been away for decades:
Smoking is prohibited indoors. The passage of anti-smoking laws in France
really surprised and impressed me! I never thought I would see the day…… I noticed
a difference this makes; I was free to sit indoors everywhere without being
assaulted by others’ invasive, bad habits.
I was surprised to see electronic – cigarette storefronts.
Everyone is disengaging from the world around them because
they are buried in activity with their smart phones – – just like everywhere else. This was especially noticeable on the
metro where heads were looking down as people tapped away on their devices,
oblivious to the world around them.
People spoke to me in French first in restaurants and cafés
and other business establishments, and on the streets.
People often approached me and asked me for directions in French.
I was flattered that a) I looked as though I knew what I was doing and b) that
people presumed I was French.
I was surprised by how many French people speak English now.
Starbucks is everywhere in the tourist areas. They carry
American-style desserts such as cakes, pastries and cookies and doughnuts etc.
People appear to look sad in the metro.
There are still musicians inside the Metro cars performing
and asking for money. That has not
changed.
Black is definitely a popular clothing color. I also
remarked at the number of men wearing brightly colored pants such as red or orange
or pink.
I am still savoring the memories of having finally reconnected
with my beloved Paris!!!!!
See my arrival Day Video here: