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A 2006 international study revealed that the Bay of Islands was said to have the second bluest sky in the world, after Rio de Janeiro.
As always, I was up on deck for the lovely sail-in to the bay in Waitangi.
Since our cruise director advised we would arrive an hour early due to the limited tender availability (due to loss of damaged tender boat #9), I ordered a 5am wake up call. The sail-in party complete with our Maori team, would begin at 5:30AM. I also ordered room service breakfast so I would have coffee (before the cafe opens) and (scarce) pineapple.
I decided to wait for room service before I began to dress. I waited seemingly endlessly for my order and began to calculate the least amount of time I needed to bathe and dress. After waiting more, it occurred to me I could bathe in body sections remaining partially dressed so I would not be completely naked when I heard the knock at my door.
I quickly disrobed the top half, scrubbed and dressed it, all while staring at my watch and feeling anxious I would be late for the sunrise sail-in party. Where WAS room service? They had never been late before. As I dressed my bottom half and brushed my teeth, I strategized about how to not be naked if I heard a knock at the door.
Finally, at 5:24, after I was dressed, I heard the knock! I tried to hide my disapproval because I only had energy to keep my momentum going. Then, the waiter proceeded to give a long explanation about why, even though he brought my raisin bran, as requested, he did not bring my almond milk. The supply closet containing specialty milks was closed til 6:30am and he would bring it later.
He brought cereal without the item with which one eats the cereal! What was the point!!!??? No more time to ponder this. I had to rush.
Frustrated, I made a cup of my instant Cuban coffee and headed to the bow for the party.
Along the way, I encountered complete silence. I walked outside and was happy to see Asia and her Mom, Irma. I strolled alongside them until I realized they were merely taking their morning walk around the deck. They were not heading to the bow for the sail-in activities. At this point, I was beginning to question the wisdom of the 5:30 party time as it was still quite dark outside. I was not discouraged though, and continued to walk all the way forward towards the bow.
I heard no one. I saw no one. Uh oh!
I walked forward through the theater to the bow door and found it locked and the area completely deserted.
I stopped by guest services to make an inquiry and got the usual blank stare reaction to my dilemma
/question. She was unaware of any early gathering. I informed her at the show last night, the cruise director, Gene had announced a 5:30AM party time to 1300 people. Still, just a blank stare from her. THAT was a waste of time.
I headed back to my room disappointed and confused. I encountered two other women who had also heard Gene's message about the schedule. At least I was not alone. Eventually, I decided to go upstairs, aft, to seek human contact. A smile came to my heart when I saw a few of my peeps staring off into the bay, cameras in hand in anticipation of the sail-in.
Robert, one of the ballroom dancers, pointed out the Southern Cross constellation to me. Apparently, you can only see it when you are in this half of the world.
It's nice to be out here with the diehards. Slowly, the sun began to rise over the bay and the blues and greens of the sea and land began to emerge as we headed towards Waitangi, in the Bay of Islands (New Zealand).
One by one, we all started to head for the bow, to join the sail-in gathering, where our Maori performers narrated the passage and posed for photos with us. Sadly, they would leave the ship today.
Once again, the views took my breath away!
I signed up for my one and only ship shore excursion: “kayaking on the Waitangi estuary”, for four hours, departing at 9:15 AM, for $99.
Our shore excursion team (about 12 of us) met just outside the tender station and followed our guide over to The Coastal Kayakers Company building. Www.coastalkayakers.co.Nz
I loved the view of the colorful kayaks against the backdrop of the bay. I must admit I was a bit anxious about being on the water in just a small kayak. I don't know how to swim. At least they were double kayaks, so I would have help.
First, they gave us life jackets and a basic safety instruction. I was not prepared to find out that our feet would get wet. They gave us sturdy watertight bags to hold all of our gear—I threw my shoes inside and functioned in socks. I didn't even bring my camera or my cell phone, deciding it would be better to not risk the damage. Instead, I relied on others to take photographs of this lovely day on the Waitangi estuary. Next, they took us over to the kayaks and showed us how to step in without tipping over and how to steer.
I was paired with Steve, an experienced kayaker who sat in back and did all of the steering and most of the rowing. He was calm and patient with me. I was quite nervous as I am not a water girl. Although I had kayaked once in a solo kayak near Rio many years ago, I realize that was on a small lake not a big bay such as this. I was in over my head and grateful I was with an expert.
Some of the sites we saw on this calm bay were the prolific mangroves jutting out from above and below the waterline, many colorful fish, unique native bird life, and finally the horseshoe-shaped Haruru waterfalls at the edge of the Waitangi forest. Steve rowed us up really close to the waterfall just to terrorize me. It was quite refreshing though. By the way, Haruru stands for “big noise”; the falls were indeed LOUD!
We docked near the Haruru Falls Resort (www.harurufallsresort.co.Nz), climbed out of our neatly parked kayaks and enjoyed a mini coffee/tea, cookie break. It was such a tranquil and naturally beautiful setting in the Bay of Islands.
We passed other vessels along the way, some filled with tourists being rowed by Maori performers, and others were kayakers and tourists on motor vehicles on the water.
On the way back, our guide demonstrated rowing under a low pedestrian dock. I could not believe it when I realized that Steve was rowing us straight in that direction, against my wishes of course. Before I knew it, I was lying down flat in hopes of not being decapitated. What an experience! I scolded him later.
After the excursion ended, most of us took the free shuttle into the town of Paihia, A 10 minute ride to the popular holiday destination filled with shops and trendy cafés and offering all kinds of excursions including fishing, snorkeling, yacht charters, and even helicopter rides around the bay. I especially enjoyed the local market filled with colorful arts and crafts. I found seemingly half of our cruise ship near the library because the word was out they had free Wi-Fi surrounding the building. I successfully connected for a few minutes.
Once again, I purchased nothing in town. I am so proud of myself.
For my next visit, I will tour the Waitangi Treaty House, the historic site where the Maori chiefs were tricked into signing over sovereignty of their lands to the British in 1840.
Some facts about the Bay of Islands
Located in the most northern part of New Zealand, it was first settled by the British in the late 1700s, specifically by Captain James Cook. Known for sailing, big-game fishing, dolphin watching, and diving, it's major cities are Waitangi, containing the treaty of Waitangi--founding document from modern New Zealand, Paihia, The main town, popular with backpackers, and Russell, a historic town.
Many of the Bay of (144) islands were farms, but now are mostly use for vacation homes. Motoroa is the only island that is still farmed.
It is yet another location Europeans tricked locals into turning over to them.
The controversial foundation of New Zealand's relationship with Great Britain was sealed in a formal document known as the treaty of Waitangi, in 1840. In order to preempt a French claim to New Zealand, a British resident, Busby was charged with orchestrating an alliance between several North Island Maori chiefs. Importantly, the Maori and British versions of this document contain different information reflecting the English effort to deceive the Waitangi officials about the terms of their covenant. Based on the contents of the Maori version, the residents did not believe they were ceding the right to the British, rather, they believe they were guaranteed full exclusive and undisturbed possession of their lands, states, forests, fisheries, and other properties, and they realized they were accountable to British Law. This document, still contested today for its divisiveness and deceptiveness, continues to evolve.
Back to the ship---The 4:30 to 5:30 sail-away was lively and once again, I skipped dinner at table 303. Instead, Steve and I had dinner together using “any time dining”. We enjoyed reviewing the day’s events, fondly. He shared that I have a wonderful, natural sense of humor.
At the sail-away party, Gene, the cruise director was discussing the fact that he was given final responsibility for scheduling all of the entertainment for the world cruise. He discussed how challenging it was to manage his budget and how they always seek to find high-profile guests that will have broad appeal to all of their customers. Some of the high-profile guests he explored for this year included Bill Clinton, the Dali Lama, and Billy Chrystal. Of note, Billy Crystal was surprisingly affordable at only $50k plus travel and video rights to his latest one-man show. Alas, because every other word in his routine was the f bomb, Gene had to dismiss this idea. Ultimately, he decided that bringing on the CEO of Holland America would make for a catalyst to hold many gala parties.
Tonight's entertainment was a variety show repeat of 1) music duo, “La Musica”, 2) Bayne Bacon, and 3) violinists, “Strings Alive”.
Ballroom dancing in both the ocean bar and upstairs in the Crow’s Nest was fun as always.
