Santiago de Cuba--with photos

Cuba: Santiago de Cuba

Today was our last of three cities on our Cuba visit. We visited Santiago de Cuba, the nation's second largest city known as a lively cultural showpiece with some of Cuba's greatest contemporary musicians and the largest Afro Cuban population. It is famous for its annual carnival celebrations, Afro Cuban religious traditions such as Santeria, it's unique vocabulary, and Son and music. This is also a city known as the cradle of revolution as it played a major role in wars of independence, the 1898 naval battle between the US and Spain, and some of Fidel Castro's battles and final victory took place here. 

Once again, I was up on deck bright and early from 7:50 AM till 8:30 AM to watch the spectacular sail-in.  I was perched in a wonderful spot all the way forward, as the ship gently glided into port, slowly revealing the beauty of this lovely city. 

 

I had my last port day breakfast after a relaxing coffee on my balcony, joined my tour at 9:30 AM, and we left the port with Esther our tour guide at 10 AM. We learned all about the city's 500-year-old history as we made five stops and enjoyed lunch. Unlike the other cities we have visited, Santiago de Cuba is built on hills, there were many more motorcyclists, there was lots of exhaust from vehicles, we encountered many baggers in the main squares, and they provided us with police escorts, "to help navigate traffic."

Our first stop was to the Cafe Teatro Macuba community project where a team of colorfully dressed singers and dancers performed in a small local theater. The performance lasted for 45 minutes. The themes of their performance were love, loss, hope, triumph, and joy. It is unfortunate that no one gave us an overview of the plot in advance.  As a result, those of us who don't speak Spanish, "sat in darkness",  missing key parts of the message. My frustration was a bit of a distraction for me--even while watching such a colorful vibrate upbeat performance.

 

Our next stop was to Cespedes Park, a major gathering spot, day and night for residents, travelers, and aggressive people begging. The park is a beautiful mix of eclectic architecture, with tall shade trees, gas lamps, and comfortable benches filled with pensive people.  One of the more aggressive beggers was an older woman who approached many in our group. I could only imagine how difficult her life must have been. She was probably forced to sell her body during her younger days and is in desperate survival mode. There were several live musical acts throughout the park who entertained and solicited fees for their performances. Key structures around the park are the Townhall, the cathedral of the Ascencion, and the ancient mansion of Spanish conquistador, Diego  Velaquez (possibly the oldest house in the Americas.). The colonial town hall is famous for the January 1959 revolution speech delivered by Fidel Castro to adoring masses.

 

Our tour guide gave us free time to stroll around the area. Many in our group purchased Cuban items at the nearby (government-run) souvenir shop. A lot of them lined up to buy cigars and rum.  I explored the famous Casa Granada, considered the best hotel in town, and strolled along adjacent streets immersing myself with the locals. I was amazed by how many motorcycles zoomed by, most caring two people. I spent time walking up the Heredia, which leads from the park/square and is a popular street with lots of foot traffic, streets stalls, cigar Pedalers, and is lined with live music venues, colonial houses, and locals gathered outside of music houses , necks stretched, stealing a glimpse of the performances inside.

Just as our group collected to rejoin the tour bus, it began to rain. Rain "rained on our parade" throughout most of the rest of the day, off and on. We took several scenic rides through various Santiago neighborhoods and at noon, enjoyed lunch at a traditional Cuban Polydor from 1215 till 2 o'clock. As we left the restaurant, once again, it began to rain. As we drove by the plaza de la Revolución, we requested a stop in front of the gargantuan statue of the hero, Maceo atop his horse and surrounded by 23 raised machetes. Some of us to descended in the rain and took photos. We passed by the original Bacardi  (1868 ) factory that now exports 70% of its 9 million annual liters of rum. Our next stop was the cemetery where we visited the tomb of Jose Marti where there is a changing of the guard twice an hour. It began to rain again so there was no ceremony.

Jose Marti

 

Our last stop was at the massive coastal fortress known as El Morro. We were given free time to visit some of its intricate walkways and alcoves. The views of the bay and the Caribbean coast line stretching all the way to the mountains are spectacular!

El Morro

 

Once again, we made it back to the bus just as it began to sprinkle.

Back at the port, fellow travelers lined up to exchange the remaining Cuban currency back into US currency and purchase final souvenirs of our awesome visit.

The following are suggested tipping guidelines in all of our ports:

Main tour guide--8 to 10 CUC per person per day
Local guide--2 to 3 CUC per person per day
Driver--3 to 5 CUC per person per day
Waitstaff--2 to CUC per person
Street performers--2 CUC per person
$.50 to 1 CUC for bathroom attendants.

Tonight, I took another cha-cha dance class, watched the fathom game show, and listened to the live Cuban band.

On the last night of the cruise, I watched one of my new favorite movies called Viva Cuba https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viva_Cuba.  Later, discovered it had been nominated for and received several international film festival awards. I adored this movie and it was a great last activity on this wonderful travel experience to Cuba!!

Viva Cuba!