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As we entered the picturesque port of Nuku Hiva, the Polynesian singers, musicians and dancers performed traditional numbers on the ship's bow, which was opened just for the sail-in. It was our first site of land in 9 days and was a feast for the eyes. I marveled at the scenic beauty and felt overcome with gratitude.
The Marquesas Islands are one of the five island archipelagoes in French Polynesia. There are 10 major islands with 4 teeny ones. Its beauty inspired artists, writers, and musicians including Paul Gauguin, Herman Melville, Robert Louis Stephenson, and Jack London. It is known for its prolifically tattooed residents, tiki wood carvings, lush landscapes, hospitality, breadfruit, laid back tempo, and sunny weather. Also, in 2001, “Survivor” was filmed here in Nuku Hiva.
My visit included mountainous, lush Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas Islands and the second largest in French Polynesia, after Tahiti. We took tenders into Taiohae Bay, in a caldera, in the capital. French Polynesian Franc and US dollars (with bad rate.) I discovered later that U$ are accepted here.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by delicate and beautiful dancers and robust singers moving to the rhythmic beat of large drums.
We walked the mile-long harbor/bay which is like an open-air museum-surrounded by beautiful ancient statues. The highlights were: 1) a visit to the compound of Notre Dame church, the largest in the Marquesas Islands with elaborately carved wooden doors at the entrance and 2) the sacred site, Par Pae Piki Vehine, a seafront site dotted with ancient Tiki statues and carvings.
The views along the harbor front were specular!
We ran into lots of smiling, fellow cruisers.
There is one long road dotted with a few houses just off the bay and the occasional 4-wheel drive vehicle passed by. Pedestrians were forced to walk on grass, on an unpaved path. There were very few businesses open for business apart from several small cafes, bistros, and shops.
It’s of a bygone era: rustic, low tech, virtually vehicle-free, with few paved roads, and rare opportunities for an internet connection.
The sail-away party was fun as new and old friends gathered by the aft pool for drinks, snacks, to share how our day was spent, and to wave good bye to Nuku Hiva as the sunset and the moon rose.
Tonight we will turn the clocks back one more half hour. Who ever heard of a half hour time zone change???????
