Karla GlobalWays

15-Night Cruise From Dubai is Next!

2012-01-12T19:20:00.007-05:00

My next adventure will be this 15-night, Middle East Cruise in a large balcony room

I will spend 2 nights pre-cruise in Dubai, UAE

Day Date Port
1 4/19 Dubai
2 4/20 Muscat, Oman
3 4/21 Sea
4 4/22 Sea
5 4/23 Sea
6 4/24 Sea
7 4/25 Sea
8 4/26 Petra, Jordan
9 4/27 Luxor, Egypt
10 4/28 Sharm-El-Sheikh, Egypt
11 4/29 Cruising Suez Canal
12 4/30 Alexandria, Egypt-- GIZA!
13 5/1 Alexandria, Egypt
14 5/2 Sea
15 5/3 Sea
16 5/4 Rome, Italy FLY HOME to Miami

Queen Victoria is a Beautiful Ship!

2011-12-27T10:06:00.017-05:00

The Queen Victoria is one of only three of the majestic ships in Cunard's elegant fleet. Built in 2007, she accommodates 2000 passengers, was captained by the first ever female Capt. in Cunard's history, and took us on a 16-day journey that was a combination of an 8-day European cruise and an 8-day transatlantic crossing.

Known for its beautiful public spaces that are elegantly decorated in tasteful Victorian-Era style, the QV contains a sumptuous, several deck Grand Lobby; a large ballroom, known as the Queens Room, where live bands play while guests ballroom dance; a large Royal Arcade shopping area; and the impressive Royal Court theatre. Of course, there are cozy bars and pubs galore. Overall, as important as history is in creating a certain elegant ambience onboard, what makes it all work is that Cunard has successfully fused heritage with modernity.

Here are some of the characteristics of our journey that I found especially appealing along with some observations and comments:

We felt the service was excellent.

The ship is extremely elegant.

We went to afternoon tea (complete wih scones, watercress sandwiches, and petits fours) every day at 3:30PM in the Queens ballroom. There was live music with a string quartet, a pianist, or a harpist. The waiters wore white gloves.

The chocoholic buffet was first class all the way: in addition to a diverse variety of chocolate delights, they had a sushi bar, cheese bar, cold cut bar, fruit bar, and other appetizers bar. They prepared made-to-order crepes, flambéed desserts, fondues (milk, dark and white choc fondue), and several premium liqueurs: Baileys, Kahlua, Grand Marnier, Frangelico and more.

The balcony rooms are ample in size.

Everyone was so “civilized” no one ever got loud. We even joined a “very orderly and proper” conga line one night. Even the casino was as quiet as a mouse.

We never had to wait in lines. We never felt it was crowded--ever. There were times when we would walk around the ships and see entire rooms (public areas, bars etc.) that had no people in them.

The passengers were 80% British.

Many venues shut down early, at about 10:30. This is likely in response to a demographically older clientele.

We had the good fortune of being on probably the only 16-day cruise in history with no children.

I found the food to be average – hit or miss. Here are 2 comments posted by other passengers:

The food was not up to the standards that most Americans expect. It was geared to British people. Very bland, boring, and non-descript.

The only disappointment was with the food. We had heard while on a previous cruise from at least one individual that the food on Cunard was not "good" - when compared to Holland America Cunard's food was definitely not as good.

Once it was discovered Joel had some food restrictions/preferences etc., the head waiter (Joachim) came every night to give us a copy of the next evening’s dinner menu as well as a vegetarian menu from which we could choose. Both he and our waiter went the extra mile to give excellent service. My waiter even squeezed my lemon (with a neat fork and spoon method) and removed my shrimp from the skewer! At the end of each meal, they brought truffles and carmelized ginger to our table.

The grand, choreographed, gala shows were fabulous, the comedians were entertaining, and as the various bands and musicians around the ship were great.

Composition of our dinner table of 10 was 7 British, 1 Canadian, and 2 American.

Along with 15 other guests, I performed in a fashion show on our 6th sea day.

There were great historians and enrichment speakers: Captain Howard Deck; and Professor Simon Newman were particularly outstanding. The virtual tour of the bridge conducted by ship’s officers was quite impressive.

A live band played every night (the Queens "ballroom tempo band" played 15 out of the 16 nights) additionally the ship's orchestra (the Royal Court Orchestra) accompanied this band for two nights of "big band music".

In keeping with Cunard tradition, evenings on the ship are quite formal. Specifically there were five formal nights, four semi-formal nights, and seven “elegant casual” nights. Gentleman must wear a jacket every single night to dinner in the main dining room and they request that the dress code be observed ship-wide after 6 PM, every night. I must admit that everyone looked elegant dressed in traditional formal attire each evening. It was nice to glide through the lounges, restaurants, and other public spaces dressed in our dinner finest.

The norovirus precautions really negatively altered our experience the first 5 days. Yet, they might have been effective; we are happy we didn’t catch it.

Days 1-5: SERIOUS NORO-VIRUS (ship infection) precautions DOMINATED the 1st third of the trip. We were hyper-washing our hands, avoiding touching surfaces—even bannisters, avoiding touching people. The captain even postponed captain’s ball because she wanted (needed) to avoid people. They made us hand sanitize everywhere we went. They encouraged us not to use public restrooms. All items were removed from tables in restaurants and they even stopped serving in the Golden Lion pub. The Lido buffet was all wrapped up and we could not touch ANYTHING. Merchandise was not out and available to touch in shops and daily “bazaars”. I couldn’t go into perfume shop and spray on my cologne daily. There were warning signs everywhere—even on bannisters, warning us not to touch.

There were full amenities/toiletries in bathrooms.

The ship’s photography services were not assertive enough.

Here are some of the activities in which I engaged: attended lots of lectures on everything from ports of call, to the history of the Olympics, to ancient Greece; ballroom dance lessons and line dance classes every day; drama class; Photoshop classes; watched fun contests by the pool, watched dancing and singing contests, went to sail away parties, took shore excursions to Olympia Greece and Gibraltar; a murder mystery show; participated in a fashion show; breakfast out on deck; daily afternnon tea with scones, masquerade ball, room service breakfast often; and many more….(Didn’t do spa or fitness or sunbathing this cruise).

We gained and hour many days as we crossed from East to West. The gift of an extra hour is always a real treat.

Overall, it was a relaxing and invigorating experience with rich delights for the mind and body!

Gibraltar-A bit of the UK at the tip of Spain

2011-12-06T22:02:00.007-05:00

As we pulled into this unique Mediterranean port with its imposing rock, we could see it faces Spain instead of the straight of Gibraltar. Although Gibraltar is a British Crown colony, geographically, it’s an isthmus of Spain—connected by strict customs houses. The history between the two nations’ claims includes Queen Isabella Spain willing it to Spain for life in 1540 and her descendent, Phillip V, handing it over to Britain in 1713. Over the years, Spain has attempted to retake Gibraltar—the strongest in a series of bloody sieges that began in 1779. During Franco’s regime, in 1969, he punished (Britain) Gibraltar by closing the border and cutting off telephone communication for 13 years. It seems The UK will never return Gibraltar to Spain because as recently as 2002, Gibraltar citizens voted to remain British—they FEEL British-not Spanish.

Here are some reflections and tidbits I learned:

Cable Car Ride Up The Rock
From atop the Gibraltar rock, we saw breathtaking views of Gibraltar, the straights, and you can see Morocco and Spain. There is such a thin line between Britain and Spain and the borderline is visible from atop the rock. Many Gibraltans cross the border to purchase lower priced groceries and household supplies.

Barbary Apes
A tail-less species of monkeys called the Barbary Macaques are the only free living wild monkeys in Europe. They are taken care of by the Gibraltar government and live throughout the nature preserve. There are numerous severe warnings posted guarding against feeding the apes; a 500 pound fine is imposed for such violations. They appear happy, fun-loving, and playful. We were also warned to guard our possessions as they like to grab objects.

Great Siege Tunnels
We toured the amazing man-made tunnels hewn out of rock with sledgehammers, gunpowder, and sheer muscle-power. The final additions were made during WWII serving as barracks, kitchens, and hospitals.

Gibraltar is very British.
The streets are lined with English-speaking pubs, fish and chips restaurants, helmeted bobbies, pillar boxes, and British department stores.

Gibraltar is multi-cultural
One of the main features of Gibraltar’s population is the diversity of their ethnic origins. The demographics of Gibraltar reflects Gibraltarians' racial and cultural fusion of the many European and other economic migrants who came to the Rock over three hundred years, after almost all of the Spanish population left in 1704.

The main ethnic groups, according to the origin of names in the electoral roll, are Britons (27%), Spanish (26%, mostly Andalusians but also some 2% of Minorcans), Genoese and other Italians (19%), Portuguese (11%), Maltese (8%), and Jews (3%). There is a large diversity of other groups such as Moroccans, Indians, French, Austrians, Chinese, Japanese, Polish and Danish.

The Gibraltar Census 2001 recorded the breakdown of nationalities in Gibraltar as being 83.22% Gibraltarian, 9.56% "Other British", 3.50% Moroccan, 1.19% Spanish and 1.00% "Other EU".

Residents hail from Gibraltar, The U.K., Spain, Morocco, Italy, India and many other nations. A tapestry of culturally diverse restaurants, bazaars, and neighbors are scattered throughout.

Olympia, Greece-site of the ancient Olympic Games

2011-11-29T15:04:00.002-05:00

Today, our ship stopped in Katakolon, a small port located in southern Greece known for its proximity to the ancient site of Olympia—yes, THE Olympia where the ancient Olympics began in 776BC and lasted more than 1200 years. The games began as a tribute to Zeus and to celebrate character and balance of body and soul, as well as beauty and nobility.

At a time when incessant wars between city states were causing massive destruction and death, the King of Greece decided to call a truce and allow its best soldier athletes to fight on an athletic battlefield. Initially, the contests were divided into those in the nude and horseracing. The first nude races were footraces and gradually grew to include a pentathlon of sports of military skill in 706BC: javelin, discus thrower, jumping, wrestling, and foot racing. Later, boxing and chariot races were added.

Winners, who wore a wreath from the sacred olive tree, were transformed into virtual gods when they returned home, heralded as heroes for a lifetime. Strict rules governed participants requiring them to be Greek citizens, devoid of accusation of murder, and violation of game rules. In addition, judges, athletes’ trainers, and spectators followed a rigid set of requirements.
Women, who had their own competition before or after the games, were not allowed to be spectators.

We visited both the archeological site and the museum that houses artifacts excavated from the site.

The Archeological Site

Here we saw the gymnasiums, temples were prayers and sacrifices were offered, Olympic village, the race track, and more. We even took photos from the original footrace starting blocks.

Today, Olympic flame of the modern-day Olympic Games is lit by a reflection of the sunlight in a parabolic mirror at the restored stadium and then transported by torch to the place where the games are held. The first such torch was carried to Berlin in 1936. In 2012, the flame will be carried from this very spot to London.

The ancient Olympics ended 393AD when the Christian Emperor banned all form of pagan worship including these international games. Later, earthquakes, northern invaders, and flood damaged and eventually covered the site under 12 ft of silt. It is a wonder the site was excavated and rediscovered by a monomaniacal German archeological team beginning in 1875.

The modern Olympics were revived and were held for the 1st time in centuries in Athens in 1896 with 44 contests and 13 countries. Subsequent Olympics were held in Paris, St Louis, London, Stockholm, Antwerp, Amsterdam, LA, Helsinki, Melbourne, Rome, Tokyo, Mexico City, and so on.

The games were only stopped during WWI and WWII.

After we toured the site, we toured the impressive (nearby) archeological museum that houses hundreds of spectacular artifacts including statues, helmets, coins, terra cotta objects, and gold items.

Our visit ended with a stroll among the harbor front cafes and shops. Efharisto, parakalo, kalimera. I still remember a bit of Greek!

We had perfect sunny, cool weather for our tour with a knowledgeable, passionate, humorous guide.

I will certainly have special thoughts about the Olympics from now on………….

Photos are coming later!

Queen Victoria Here We Come!

2011-11-02T12:05:00.011-05:00

Soon, Joel and I will fly to Venice to take a 16-day transatlantic crossing that will bring us back home to South Florida. After spending the night in Venice, onboard the ship, we will make ports of call in Gibraltar, Olympia (Greece), Funchal (Madeira), Bermuda, and Charleston, SC.

There will be 5 formal and 4 semi-formal nights on this elegant cruise. This will be my second journey aboard a Cunard Line ship.

Here is the itinerary:

Date Port Arrive Depart
Nov 20 Venice---overnight stay
Nov 21 Venice 9PM
Nov 22 At Sea
Nov 23 Olympia 8AM 5PM
Nov 24 At Sea
Nov 25 At Sea
Nov 26 Gibraltar 8AM 1:30PM
Nov 27 Funchal, Madeira 6PM arrive-overnight stay
Nov 28 Funchal, Madeira 6PM depart
Nov 29 At Sea
Nov 30 At Sea
Dec 1 At Sea
Dec 2 At Sea
Dec 3 Hamilton, Bermuda 8AM 4PM
Dec 4 At Sea
Dec 5 Charleston, SC 8AM 3PM
Dec 6 Ft Lauderdale, Fl. 11AM

I really look forward to exploring new ports of call, enjoying the elegant ship, relaxing on our balcony at sea, and meeting new friends over meals and excursions.

Pompeii and Amalfi Coast from Cruise Ship-A Postcard Comes to Life!

2011-10-06T15:33:00.009-05:00

On the last day of our 13-day cruise, we took an all day private excursion with 1) a 5-hour drive with stunning coastal scenary along both the majestic Sorrento Peninsula and the famous rugged Amalfi Coast AND 2) a 2-hour tour of the ruins of Pompeii with a local university scholar.

Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi-A Picture Postcard Comes to Life

From the port in the gulf of Naples, we began our journey with a southward drive along the coast nestled between sea, sky, cliffs, and lush green groves of lemons, oranges, and olives. With stunning views at every corner, our eyes feasted on the world-famous Sorrento peninsula with its dramatic mountains, picturesque fishing villages and ancient Roman cities. We made a stop in Sorrento, a popular resort town since the 1700s. Legend tells us it was from Sorrento that the sirens attempted to lure Ulysses onto the rocks. Our group (of 8) headed directly to a friendly café, in Tasso Square, known for its ginormous cappuccinos (only 1.5 Euros), mouth-watering pastries, and clean bathrooms. With free time to explore, we strolled along the shop-lined medieval streets, ever welcoming year-round tourists, many of whom return again and again. I understand why.

We continued our drive along a The Amalfi Coast, via a rugged road that twists and turns amidst high rugged cliffs and low hills and valleys, overlooking the turquoise and emerald bay. Dotted with ancient villas dedicated to leisure and lush orange and lemon trees, olive groves and vineyards, the views simply take your breath away.

Sidebar: it actually almost did take some of our breathe away. This drive is not for the faint of stomach.

Our next stop was the steep-stepped and picturesque town of Positano, a town with narrow pedestrian streets that cling to tall cliffs. Until we reached the pedestrian-only areas, we strolled on foot while sharing the roads with automobiles navigating the winding roads. (I felt a bit anxious!) We encountered narrow-stepped alleys, pastel-colored houses with vaulted roofs, terraces and tiny gardens, and shops carrying a variety of colorful resort and beach where, pottery, and a wide variety of products made from the regions fragrant lemons. Here, I feasted on a mozzarella and tomato sandwich on herbed focaccia, from a friendly café.

We continued our drive down to Amalfi, a former 11th-century maritime republic, nestled between mountains and sea. Once again, we enjoyed its scenic beauty and original architecture while visiting shops that cater to its year-round tourists. Local lemon products abound.

From 1:30- till 2:30, we drove inland to Pompeii. Instead of seeing blue waters, our surroundings here were lush emerald green lemon trees, olive groves, and vineyards. Although beautiful, the drive was so upsetting to my stomach that I had to keep my head lowered to stabilize my insides.

Pompeii-one of the most important archeological sites in Europe

Our tour guide, who lives at the university, was passionate, thorough, witty, and allowed us to gain access to sections of the archeological site that are off-limits to the general public. I had heard that Pompeii is not as impressive a site as Ephesus. Boy, were the wrong! Words cannot describe how impressive these remains are of a city buried by an erupting Mt Vesuvius in 79AD-remains of which were first discovered around 1750. The site revealed remnants of a diverse and cosmopolitan city with richly decorated villas, paved streets, public forums, furnishings, brothels, gardens, wine cellars, temples, a 5000-seat amphitheatre, gymnasiums, merchant shops, craftsmen stalls, indoor plumbing, aqueducts, and even an intact toilet. Paintings, friezes, mosaics, sculptures, and commercial signs are seen throughout. Most impressive are the plaster casts that recreate the bodies of victims killed by the volcano’s toxic fumes while engaged in everyday tasks.

Of note, Mt Vesuvius dominates the backdrop of Naples and its entire environs. I even took photos of Mt Vesuvius from my balcony room on the ship.

What a splendid day of discovery, beauty, and gastronomical delight!

PS we paid less than $120 for our full day private tour (8 tourists) (lunch was on our own) while RCL charged $345 for the same itinerary (minus stop in Amalfi) for a larger busload of people. We hired a university scholar on Pompeii (100 euros for 2 hour tour). They used headsets and had guides whose English was challenging to understand and they were “dragged” to a “cameo factory”.

Kusadasi, Turkey-Bazaar Delight!

2011-10-06T15:28:00.006-05:00

Known as the gateway to visits to Turkey’s most prized, well-preserved ancient city of Ephesus, and a shopper’s delight, Kusadasi is one of Turkey’s most popular seaside resort cities. Since I had visited Ephesus. House of the Virgin Mary, and ruins of St John’s Basilica/Temple of Artemis, all just 10 months ago (see my blog post here http://tinyurl.com/5v7fky8), I chose to remain near the port visiting the town and Pigeon Island.

After disembarking, I headed for the ancient Kaleici neighborhood via the shop-lined “pedestrianized” main street. I found the vendors in the two large markets close to the ship to be so aggressive that it disturbed me. I felt like red meat for a pack of hungry wolves. The were the most aggressive vendors I have experienced in a while.

After spending some time in Kaleici, I decided to seek a peaceful contrast to the chaos of the markets. I took a leisurely stroll across a causeway to Pigeon Island, for which Kusadasi is named. As I strolled along the waterfront toward Pigeon Island, the sun began to melt away the tension and I enjoyed scenes of fishing boats, cafes, sailboats, and cats.

Located on the island is defensive castle, a monument that can easily be seen from our ship. The scenery on this peaceful, tiny island was stunning with views of the sea with its iridescent turquoise waters. I explored and took photos.

Palermo, Sicily-1st visit to Italy's toe

2011-10-06T15:25:00.004-05:00

My first time in the “toe” of Italy’s boot, I spent 7 hours touring Palermo, taking in sites on and off the beaten path. What struck me most was the interesting and varied Norman Arabic, and Baroque architecture; unbelievably chaotic traffic; and that only Italian is spoken here (it is not infested w. tourists). Heavily bombed during WWII, there remain bombed out sections of the city that were never restored. I must confess: I couldn’t help but think of La Cosa Nostra—especially when there are a plethora of t-shirts, post cards, and other souvenirs that feature mafiusu and even Don Corleone! I bonded with the local merchants when I told them I am from Chicago—infamous for serving as Al Capone’s home base. Every since I began travelling 30 years ago, I find that foreigners connect Chicago to Al Capone. In France, they used to say, “Bang, Bang, do you carry a gun!” (in a really broken accent!)

I began my day by searching for stop #1 on the red line of the Hop on Hop Off bus. Because the process for acquiring tickets and boarding was so chaotic, I decided to sit back and enjoy two complete circuits that included stops at The 4 Corners Square, The Famous Markets, and The Palace Reale

I disembarked and got acquainted up close and personal by strolling through the narrow streets, visiting colorful and abundant markets, and savoring a gelato, a cappuccino, and a delectable slice of pizza.

I will save a visit to the Catacombs for my next stop here.

Tour From Haifa, Israel to Nazareth and Galilee and More.

2011-10-06T15:02:00.007-05:00

On day 6 of our cruise, we explored the beautiful North of Israel from the Port of Haifa.

Our journey consisted of a full day tour to the historic locations and stunning scenery of the places where Jesus lived, preached and performed his miracles. Included on our full-day shore excursion were: Nazareth, Cana, Tabgha, Mount of Beatitudes, Capernaum, Sea of Galilee, Yardenit Baptismal Site on The Jorgan River, the Haifa Bay and Baha'i Gardens, and lunch overlooking the Sea of Galilee. We travelled through lush green hills and we could see the Golan Heights and Lebanon from different points along the journey.

First, we traveled along the plains of Armageddon to Nazareth - the place where Jesus spent his early years. In Nazareth, we toured the Basilica of the Annunciation, established at the site where, according to Roman Catholic tradition, the Virgin Mary received the news from Angel Gabriel that she would give birth to Jesus. Rebuilt in 1969, on the remains of Byzantine and Crusader churches, it is the largest Christian sanctuary in the Middle East. The vast upper church and courtyard are decorated with large gift mosaics of the Virgin Mary donated by 43 nations from around the world. Each mosaic reflects characteristic of its mother land. My favorite mosaics were from Cameroon, Japan, Thailand, and the USA. Here is a site that shows all 43 mosaics gifts and more….
http://www.biblewalks.com/Sites/AnnunciationMosaics.html

The site has been a pilgrimage destination since earliest times and remains an important stop for Christian Holy Land pilgrims today.

Then onwards to Tabgha, the site of the miracle of loaves and fish. There were fish mosaics in the tile throughout. We saw the great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great greatgrandparent of the fishes from THE loaves and fishes .

Next, was my favorite stop because it was beautiful and peaceful--a visit to the Mount of Beatitudes where it is believed Jesus preached the famous Sermon on the Mount. Located on a hill overlooking the Sea of Galilee near Tabgha, the Mount of Beatitudes is the traditional site of Jesus' delivery of the Sermon on the Mount, probably the most famous sermon of all time (Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. …) I found it a bit odd that our tour guide asked a fellow traveler to read The Beatitudes from the bible. Perhaps he simply refuses to read from the New Testament—he did this several times. Pilgrims have been drawn to this scenic place since at least the 4th century.

Next was a visit to Capernaum, an ancient fishing village located on the beautiful shores of the Sea of Galilee, considered the center of Jesus' ministry. The town is cited in the Gospel of Luke where it was reported to have been the home of the apostles Simon Peter, Andrew, James, Matthew, and John. Key points of interest here are the archeological site where excavations have revealed ruins of two ancient synagogues, built one over the other; (where an impressive mosaic floor was recently discovered), an olive mill and an olive press dating from Roman times: and the octagonal church-- ALL with a stunning backdrop of the sea of Galilee.

Lunch was traditional bountiful, middle-eastern fare at the restaurant St Peter, overlooking the Sea of Galilee.

Continuing along the panoramic seashore, we drove to the Yardenit baptismal site where the River Jordan separates from the Sea of Galilee. This site is believed by some traditions to be the actual site where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist. In this naturally scenic and symbolic setting, with diverse flora, and some exotic animal species, pilgrims from around the world come to perform baptismal ceremonies. Entire church groups even travel here for Baptism ceremonies. The gift shop, naturally, was immense. See this site for some photos: http://www.biblewalks.com/Sites/yardenit.html

We ended the day a with picturesque drive to the top of Mount Carmel for a panoramic view over the Haifa bay and the famous golden-domed Baha'i Temple with its exquisitely sculptured and manicured gardens. What a magnificent choice of locations for the world headquarters of the Baha'i Faith. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is an oasis of sheer beauty. Of note, here are 7 Baha'I temples in the world, one on every continent. I have also visited the Asian site in Delhi India. From atop Mt Carmel, we had a perfect view of our ship docked at the port.

Another enriching, moving day touring Northern Israel. Taking a small, private, group tour is always the best way to visit a port.

Jerusalem: Truly multicultural and truly rich in history

2011-09-28T06:48:00.020-05:00

Today, I took a moving and memorable ten-hour, private tour of both Jerusalem, and (Palestine Controlled) Bethlehem. What struck me most was how lush and green the countryside was; that we could see the 436-mile “security wall” from different locations; and as we entered Jerusalem, I was amazed by how densely populated the city is with neighborhoods tightly built up into the hillside. Of course, the imposing Temple Mount with its distinctive, glistening golden Dome of the Rock, one of the most sacred Muslim sites in the world, can be seen from every corner of the city. Because it is situated on a most holy Jewish site (Abraham almost sacrificed his son, Solomon built 1st Temple, and 2nd temple was built), its location is a source of never-ending conflict between Muslims and Jews.

Downtown Jerusalem is very congested and the streets are too narrow for the volume of traffic and not much better for pedestrians. Parking is a nightmare and many park right on the pavement. Fortunately, our small van was able to navigate the narrow streets that connect and surround parts of the old city. Our first stop was lookout point with spectacular panoramic views of the city, dominated by the breathtaking Dome of The Rock. Then, we drove along the Mount of Olives, of great importance to Jews, Christians, and Muslims, with shrines dedicated to all 3 religions. It houses the Jewish cemetery which is considered a most sacred burial ground for Jews worldwide, today. At the foot of the mountain, we visited the garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus was arrested and the Church of All Nations.

We could see panoramic views of Mount Zion from different points throughout the day.

Next, we headed for the Old City, walled in by ancient stone, containing the greatest concentration of all weaves of society, in a maze of winding streets. Included are the Jewish, Muslim, Armenian, and Christian Quarters, all filled with colorful markets, aromatic cafes, pungent restaurants, and pedestrian streets with nearby sounds of Jewish prayer at the Western wall, Catholic church bells ringing, and the call to Muslim prayer from muezzin--all within minutes of each other.

Here, we had tours of inside of the famous (and very crowded) Church of the Holy Sepulchre; Via Dolorosa (the path along which Jesus was forced to walk with the cross on his back—we visited stations 5, 6, & 7); the Western (“Wailing”) Wall; and through Arab Markets. I found the Western Wall, one of the Holiest Jewish sites in the world, most moving of all. I wrote a prayer and pressed it into a crevice of the wall. I must confess: I peeked at the men on the other side of the gender partition and photographed some of them. Of course, there side looked more interesting.

On Jerusalem: I love the co-existence of east and west, ancient and modern, secular and religious, and there are still even those who ride on donkeys, camels, and horses. Jerusalem’s residents come from more than a hundred ethnic and religious backgrounds. The ride ranging mix of people can be seen while walking down a street: a cassocked priest from an Eastern Orthodox Church, a black-veiled, abaya-clad Muslim woman, and an Ethiopian immigrant in flowing white robes, a black-garbed Orthodox Jew with beard and corkscrew curls, and an Indian immigrant in a colorful sari. All in one mosaic inside a 42-square mile radius.

Next, our Israeli tour guide, Ron, left our bus because he refused to stay on the bus as it moved into Palestine-controlled Bethlehem and because he did not wish to share space with our Palestinian tour guide. Despite his warnings, we felt very safe in Bethlehem and our Tour Guide, Samir, a Christian Palestinian, was a gentle and respectful soul. Of note, our Israeli tour guide made it clear he was NOT going to be politically correct and at one point even referred to some Arab children as maggots.

We were required to go through an official check point to enter Bethlehem. We strolled through the streets of Bethlehem to visit the Church of the Nativity, believed to be the birth place of King David and Jesus. For lunch, we dined in a small restaurant that gave us a choice between two delicious sandwiches: shawarma or falafel. Vendors followed us to the next stop (LOL) which was a large Christian gift shop. The official checkpoint leading back into Jerusalem (from the West Bank) was much more stringent with armed guards coming on board our van to check us out.

It was obvious we were spending time in a military states whose primary purpose is survival. Israel’s ports must be the most heavily guarded in the world. The port of Ashdod was flooded with military ships. Although I felt a bit uneasy before going there, I admit I felt quite safe.

I enjoyed the day and will visit New Jerusalem and several museums next time.

Rhodes, The Perfect Port City

2011-09-28T06:47:00.007-05:00

Today, I visited Rhodes, a walled city that is the largest permanently inhabited medieval city in Europe. Rhodes is the name of the city as well as the Aegean island and consists of three different cities: ancient, medieval, and modern and the old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Of course, it is best known for the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the seven Wonders of the Ancient World, that stood in the old harbor until it collapsed in an earthquake in 227 BC, after dominating the harbor for 56 years. It is also known for its splendid beaches and 300 days of sunshine a year.

As I left the ship, I noticed Hop On Hop Off Buses just outside the port entrance (stop #8). Although I had studied all the maps and planned to take a self-guided tour of the Old Town, I decided to begin my journey with an hour long scenic circuit of the entire city (including up to Monte Smith) atop the tour bus, listening to a guided lecture. As always, I learned a lot and succeeded in getting an overview of both old and new, I would not have been able to conquer on foot.

Once I was satisfied I had a nice overview, I descended the bus (at stop #6) close to the stop where I boarded and near the Old Town central market, adjacent to the knights quarter. This was the perfect starting point for my walking tour of the (mostly pedestrian-only) Old Town. The well-preserved old town is divided into 3 quarters: knights, Turkish, and Jewish. I explored all 3.

The Avenue of the Knights, Ipoton, is the main thoroughfare of the knights’ quarter. This street is lined with the imposing Inns, residences of Knights of the Order of St John, that are divided by linguistic affinity, from each of the 7 groups that occupied Rhodes. I saw the French, Spanish, and Italian Inns, all that house archeological and decorative arts museums. I will explore Rhodes’ many museums on my next visit.

From here, I walked straight uphill to the Palace of Grand Masters, an imposing fort; built to be the last line of defense should the outer walls of the city be breached. Built on the site where the ancient Greek temple of Apollo stood, it was the residence of the Grand Master of the Knights, and where the Order assembled. After Rhodes fell to the Turks in 1522, it was converted to a prison and the palace was completely destroyed by an accidental explosion of stored black powder in 1856.

What is visible today as the Palace of the Grand Masters was rebuilt in the 1930’s based upon old drawings and it’s the complete reconstruction was undertaken to create the summer residence of Mussolini and King Victor Emmanuel III. Of note, it was never used for this purpose.

Next, I climbed the hill of the Mosque of Suleiman that was built soon after the Turks occupied the city of Rhodes in 1522 on the site of the destroyed Christian Church of the Apostles.

Just in front of the Suleiman Mosque is the old Turkish Bazaar that lines Sokratous Street, which is packed with tourists and a melee of shops that spill their wares into the street. I enjoyed exploring and bargaining. The shop owners are not annoyingly aggressive as in certain other cities.

Sokratous Street is a pleasant cobblestone street that is bound to be walked by every tourist who visits Rhodes. I took a slow walk through this street from the Mosque of Suleiman to the very lively Ippokratous Square which surrounds the Castellania fountain (birds are actually drinking from each of the faucets!!), and is framed by the old Chadrevan mosque on the west and the Palace of the Castellan on the east. All around, coffee shops and terraced-restaurants burst at the seams as they spill onto the street having completely covered the old buildings.

I returned to the ship to recharge my camera battery, find my ATM card, and grab lunch. I went back into Old Town for another 2 hours to explore more of the maze of nooks and crannies of this remarkably charming town.

When I return, I will take a trip to Lindos.

Tweet: Rhodes is the perfect port city: rich in history, U walk there from ship, it’s beautiful, it’s unique: a medieval walled-city & people smile

Chania, one of the most photographed cities in Greece

2011-09-28T06:46:00.004-05:00

Today, I visited the city of Chania one of the most photographed cities in Greece. It is located on the island of Crete. I visited the charming old town with narrow, cobblestone streets; monuments and buildings dating to the 1500s, and a breathtaking harbor. The rain tried to ruin our day but did not succeed. You can see this in my photos.

Finally Ordered a Kindle to Lighten my Bookload

2011-09-12T15:09:00.007-05:00

I cannot decide which novels and reference books to take on my trip, so I finally ordered a Kindle for my upcoming 13-day overseas vacation. I see I will have 3-G wireless access to ordering books in 100 countries—Italy, Greece, Turkey and Israel are included.

I downloaded the Kindle apps to my I-phone, desktop and laptop PCs. I have already ordered some history and travel books and downloaded them to my other devices. I look forward to using my new Kindle which should arrive in 2 days!!

Travel Overseas With Ease

2011-08-27T15:12:00.004-05:00

Join me as I provide suggestions on how to make the most of your first overseas trip by getting to know your destination culture BEFORE you go!

13-night, 4-country cruise with Israel

2011-07-10T09:18:00.009-05:00

I will take this wonderful 13-night cruise that visits Israel (my first time), Greece, Italy, and Turkey. I look forward to a relaxing and intellectually stimulating time and to chilling out in my balcony room on a great ship!

Here is the route:

Sept 20 depart from Rome, Italy
Sept 21 Sea day
Sept 22 Chania, Crete, Greece
Sept 23 Rhodes, Greece
Sept 24 Sea day
Sept 25 Jerusalem (Ashdod) Israel
Sept 26 Nazareth (Haifa) Israel
Sept 27 Sea day
Sept 28 Ephesus, Turkey
Sept 29 Athens, Greece
Sept 30 Sea day
Oct 1 Palermo, Sicily, Italy
Oct 2 Naples,/Capri, Italy
Oct 3 Back to Rome and Flight back to Miami

Granada and El Alhambra-Spain

2011-03-30T08:00:00.009-05:00

Granada and the Great Alhambra “The Pearl Set in Emeralds”

Today, we took a tour with SpainDaytours to visit The Magnificent Alhambra, a 1.5 hour drive from the port of Malaga, Spain.

The Alhambra palace, the greatest Moorish palace in Europe, was built for the last Muslim Emir during the mid-14th century.

The complex demonstrates the grandeur of the Moorish civilization of Andalusia with its signature features including busy stucco, plaster "stalactites," colors galore, scalloped windows framing hillside Granada views, exuberant gardens, and water, water everywhere. Water — so rare and precious in most of the Islamic world — was the purest symbol of life to the Moors-so, the Alhambra is abundantly decorated with water: standing still, cascading, masking secret conversations and drip-dropping playfully.

At one time, 2000 Muslims lived inside the Alhambra walls

The Alhambra in Four Parts

The Alhambra consists of four sights clustered together atop a hill: 1. The (Non-Moorish) Charles V's Palace (Christian Renaissance palace plopped on top of the Alhambra after the reconquest), 2. Alcazaba (fort with tower and views), 3. Palacios Nazaries (exquisite Moorish palace, (the jewel of the tour), and 4. Generalife (beautiful, lush gardens and summer palace).

1. Charles V's Palace
Conquering kings often built their own palaces over their foe's palace, and that's exactly what the Christian king Charles V did. The Palacios Nazaries wasn't suitable for Charles, so he built this new home, considered Spain's most impressive Renaissance building, on top of it. Charles' palace was designed to have a dome, but it was never finished. His son, Philip II, abandoned it to build his own palace, El Escorial. Yes, it’s another case of pure European royal greed and waste.
We visited the adjacent Museo de la Alhambra, showing off some of the Alhambra's best surviving Moorish art, along with one of the lions from Palacios Nazaries' fountain (under construction till 2012).

2. Alcazaba
The fort — the original "red castle" or "Alhambra" — is the oldest and most ruined part of the complex, offering spectacular city views. At one time, this tower defended a town (or medina) of 2,000 Muslims living within the Alhambra walls.
Of note, in the 19th century, Napoleon stationed his troops at the Alhambra, contributing substantially to its ruin when he left.

3. Palacios Nazaries, the Moorish royal palace
At 1:30, the entry time slot stamped on our tickets, we entered the jewel of the Alhambra: the Moorish royal palace, Palacios Nazaries, built primarily in the 14th century. We toured three basic sections: royal offices, ceremonial rooms, and private quarters.

We visited rooms decorated from top to bottom with carved wood ceilings, stucco "stalactites," ceramic tiles, molded-plaster walls, and filigree windows. Open-air courtyards in the palace feature fountains with bubbling water like a desert oasis, the Quran's symbol of heaven. The palace is well-preserved, but the trick is to imagine it furnished and filled with Moorish life...sultans with hookah pipes lounging on pillows on Persian carpets, tapestries on the walls, heavy curtains on the windows, and ivory-studded wooden furniture. The whole place was painted with bright colors, many suggested by the Quran — red (blood), blue (heaven), green (oasis), and gold (wealth). And throughout the palace, walls, ceilings, vases, carpets, and tiles were covered with decorative patterns, mostly calligraphy writing out verses of praise from the Quran.

As I wandered, I kept the palace themes in mind: water, no images, "stalactite" ceilings, and jagged pathways that zigzag (to prevent enemies from storming the place).

We toured Court of Myrtles (Patio de los Arrayanes); Boat Room (Sala de la Barca); Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones); The Hall of the Ambassadors (Gran Salón de Embajadores); Hall of the Two Sisters (Sala de Dos Hermanas); the Hall of the Abencerrajes (Sala de los Abencerrajes); Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones); and The Hall of the Kings (Sala de los Reyes)

Here are highlights of three of them:

The Hall of the Ambassadors (Gran Salón de Embajadores): During the 15th century, a visitor here would have stepped from the glaring Court of Myrtles into this dim, cool, incense-filled world, to meet the silhouetted sultan.

There is finely carved Arabic script throughout. Muslims are forbidden from making images of living creatures — that is God's work. Instead, they are allowed to display decorative religious messages. One phrase — "only Allah is victorious" — is repeated 9,000 times throughout the palace.

In 1492, two historic events likely took place in this room.

1.Culminating a 700-year-long battle, the Reconquista was completed here as the last Moorish king, Boabdil, signed the terms of his surrender before eventually leaving for Africa.

2.Columbus made his pitch to Queen Isabel and King Ferdinand to finance a sea voyage to the Orient, making his case that he could sail west to reach the East. Although most in the audience of the greatest minds from the University of Salamanca scoffed and called him mad, Queen Isabel said "Sí, señor."

Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones): This patio, the Patio de los Leones, features a fountain that's usually surrounded by 12 lions. One of the lions is on display in the Museo de la Alhambra inside the Charles V palace, while the others were under construction.

Why did the fountain have 12 lions? Since the fountain was a gift from a Jewish leader celebrating good relations with the sultan (Granada had a big Jewish community), the lions represent the 12 tribes of Israel. During Moorish times, the fountain functioned as a clock, with a different lion spouting water each hour. (Conquering Christians disassembled the fountain to see how it worked, and it's never worked since.)

Washington Irving Room: We visited the room marked with a large plaque “where Washington Irving wrote Tales of the Alhambra”. While living in Spain in 1829, Irving stayed in the Alhambra. His "tales" re-kindled interest in the place, causing it to become recognized as a national treasure. A plaque on the wall thanks Irving, who later served as the US ambassador to Spain (1842–1846). Here's a quote from Irving's "The Alhambra by Moonlight": "On such heavenly nights I would sit for hours at my window inhaling the sweetness of the garden, and musing on the checkered fortunes of those whose history was dimly shadowed out in the elegant memorials around."

Washington Irving is virtually celebrated as the contemporary patron saint of Granada because his writings sparked renewed worldwide interest in The Alhambra.

4. Generalife Gardens and Summer Palace
It is considered the most perfect Arabian garden in Andalucía. Generalife, (the sultan's vegetable and fruit garden and summer palace), is a short hike uphill near the palace. The 2,000 residents of the Alhambra enjoyed the fresh fruit and veggies grown here. Most importantly, the sultan enjoyed a quiet escape from a busy life governing in the summer. Of note, the Sultan never stayed overnight (security concerns).

This summer home of the Moorish kings, the closest thing on earth to the Quran's description of Heaven, was planted over 600 years ago — remarkable longevity for a European garden.

Many tourists never get to see the Alhambra because entry is limited and tickets sell out quickly. The Alhambra admits 7,800 visitors a day. Six thousand tickets are sold in advance and the rest are sold each day early at the Alhambra ticket window. The Alhambra complex's top sight is the Moorish palace — Palacios Nazaries. Only 300 visitors per half hour are allowed to enter there. Tickets cost 12Euros in March 2011.

Next time, I will visit after May when all the flowers are in full bloom!

Madeira-A Feast for the Eyes

2011-03-24T06:24:00.002-05:00

One of the most beautiful places I have ever visited.

Funchal, Madeira’s beauty simply took my breath away. It is the perfect port city to visit because it combines beauty, history, hospitality, and ease of access, all into one spectacular package.

It is eternally spring in this small, peaceful, volcanic island that features soaring cliffs, clear blue water, stunning mountains, deep canyons, and prolific city gardens with breathtaking displays of flowers rarely seen outside Hawaii and the Pacific Islands. There are beautiful gardens EVERYWHERE and Funchal was awarded the 2000 competition for Greening and Flowering of Towns. Also, it was recently voted cleanest city in Portugal.

We took the full circuit of the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus tour. The bus transported us through the beautiful harbor, through the winding streets of the old quarter, then, high into the mountains atop all the lush green flora and past beautiful residences that overlook the harbor. We climbed as high as the cable car ride.
On the tour, we learned about how Funchal was an important supply point on transatlantic trade routes leading to the Americas, Africa, and India because the predominant trade winds naturally led ships here (and to the Canaries).

I am simply stunned by the beauty of this city that is a continuous feast for the eyes. I would visit Funchal, Madeira again in a heartbeat.

Canary Islands-- Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

2011-03-24T06:23:00.003-05:00

The Canary Islands situated in the Atlantic Ocean, close to North Africa were at the crossroads of 14th century explorations of Africa, transatlantic trade, the sugar trade, and was even a stop by Christopher Columbus en route to the “Asia”. The Archipelago occupies a position that facilitates navigation toward the west due to its Trade Winds and sea streams. That is why expeditions would land here to stock up on supplies before crossing the Atlantic. Fought over and colonized by Italy, Portugal, France, England, and Spain, and ravaged by bands of pirates and buccaneers, it was eventually proclaimed a Spanish province in 1821.

Today, we visited the largest and most popular of the 7 Canary Islands, Gran Canaria. With its balmy, sunny climate, lots of coastline, laid back feel, and outdoor lifestyle makes it ideal for tourism, which produces 80% of the islands revenue.

Via Hop-On-Hop-Off tour bus, we toured Las Palmas, capital of the Eastern Provinces of the Canaries, (Santa Cruz de Tenerife is capital of the western provinces). First we took the entire hour long 9-stop (15 Euro) circuit tour. The scenery of the layers of multicolored houses across the mountain side was spectacular. This is a popular beach vacation destination among Europeans. The 2nd time around, we got off at stop 4—The Old City—where we visited the 16th century Cathedral de Santa Ana and the Casa de Colon. Casa de Colon is a museum that houses scale models, panels, nautical maps, navigational instruments, 15th century globes, caravel models, and geographic documentation of collections on 1) Christopher Columbus and his Voyages, and 2) Gran Canaria and the city of Las Palmas.

I especially enjoyed hearing (again) about how Columbus made 4 expeditions to seek a new route to Asia (NEVER KNOWING he arrived at lands unknown to Europeans), the role that trade winds played in guiding Columbus’ routes, the secret treaty (by the Pope) that gave most of the Americas to Spain and only Brazil (and a few small islands east of European mainland) to Portugal, and how entire families from the Canary Islands were forced to emigrate to various parts of the Americas to help Spain maintain its control of the region. The most popular emigrant destinations were Cuba, The Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, Buenos Aires, Montevideo, and Caracas. Venezuela is often called the 8th island of the Canaries and a high proportion of Cubans can claim Canarian ancestry.

By the way, it is believed that the Canary Islands’ name is derived from a kind of dog, popular on the island.

Tree-climbing goats en route from Agadir to Taroudant, Morocco

2011-03-22T05:43:00.008-05:00

From our ship, we took a private excursion from the resort town of Agadir to Taroudant, a former imperial city called "Little Marrakesh". An hour-long bus ride complete with majestic scenery through a landscape of wild beauty with lush plains and past the snow-topped Atlas Mountains (as much as 1800 meters high) took us to Taroudant, a city surrounded by pink/tan mud walls, founded in the 16th century.

Unlike most Moroccan cities, such as Fez, Meknes, and Marrakesh, Taroudant does not have a real ville nouvelle; rather, almost the entire city is contained within the wall-- so you really get the feeling of stepping back in time and you gain a sense of what rural Moroccan life is all about.

The focal point of our journey was a stroll thru the walled-city filled with colorful images of streets lined with djellaba-clad woman and men, fish vendors, produce carts, cafes filled with men in gandouras relaxing with a cigarettes, and vendors selling wares from bike baskets—all with the backdrop of the Atlas Mountains and city ramparts. The streets were so chaotic and narrow, that at times, we had to constantly avoid cars, horse-drawn carriages, bikes, and other vehicles. Of note, the ramparts span 4 miles.

We felt rather conspicuous as a group of pale westerners led by our The djellaba-clad tour guide. The women, colorfully covered from head to toe, seemed particularly curious about me.

Our trip inside the central market was a treat for all the senses. As with all Moroccan towns, life here revolves around the market or souk, which buzzes with life amidst a mosaic of sights, sounds, smells, and textures. The daily Berber market sells spices, vegetables, clothing, household goods, pottery and other items. In the Arab souk, the emphasis is on handicrafts, terracotta, wrought iron, brass and copper, pottery, leather goods, carpets, and jewelry. Hassan directed us to certain stalls where spices and argan oil where specialties.

One of the highlights of the tour was seeing goats climbing Argan trees en route to Taroudant. We stopped to see the goats and were amazed that they actually climb up into the Argan trees. These special trees (unique to this area) produce a fruit with seeds that are rich in Vitamin E and important in the cosmetic industry, although the locals use the oil to replace olive oil. Goats are particularly fond of the trees and actually climb up into them to feed, which is quite a sight! In town, we visited a shop that sold a variety of healing products and cosmetics made from the prized Argan oil. On sight, were women grounding seeds from the argan fruit.

Of note, Agadir was completely ruined in an earthquake in 1960. Our tour guide, 2 years old at the time, was deeply affected by its impact his entire life, as the city took decades to recover.

On the way back, we drove up to the old Kabash that overlooks Agadir. The view of the coastline is spectacularly breathtaking. Camel owners offered rides and photo shoots with their colorful animals. I should have taken a shot while sitting on a camel with the blue sea and coastline below. Next time!!......

Our tour guide Hassan made it clear that Moroccans are Berber people, not Arabs, and therefore don’t harbor anti-American sentiments. Moroccans love their King and are generally satisfied with their traditional ways.

Just to think…..we almost did not visit Morocco. The last cruise did not stop because of country-wide protests held on February 20, a week before their sailing.

Abdou’s website with photos:
http://www.freewebs.com/khettabi/taroudant.htm

Casablanca

2011-03-20T13:42:00.004-05:00

Today’s visit from our cruise ship: Casablanca, Morocco

With 3.5 million residents, Casablanca is the 2nd largest city in Africa after Cairo. It serves as the commercial and financial capital despite its relative young age as a major city. It was only during the French protectorate of 1912-1956 that the city assumed its pivotal role in the Moroccan economy and grew from a village of just a few thousand to over 3 million inhabitants. The dream of a French governor in the early 20th century, the city is a modern, bustling, cosmopolitan center with skyscrapers, modern government buildings, and planned urban enclaves. Although very westernized, men and women are still segregated in most facilities.

The highlights of my day here were as follows:

Mosque Hassan II

First we took a taxi to the world’s 2nd largest mosque after the one in Mecca. Casablanca’s skyline is dominated by this massive edifice. It holds 25,000 worshippers inside and 80,000 outside. It also holds the world’s largest minaret. It was partly constructed on the water; we saw it emerge as the ship entered Casablanca waters. At one point, you can see the water through the glass floor.

Old Medina

Next, we took a taxi to the old Medina, a colorful market where merchants sell a conglomeration of fruits, vegetables, spices, meats, beans, grains, olives, clothing, pottery, crafted wood, fragrances, fabrics, shoes, berber crafts, jewelry, and many other items. “Mustafa” insisted on guiding us through the web of tiny streets that were a confusing maze of passageways. I enjoyed taking in all the sights, sounds, and smells of this lively medina.

I found the Moroccans to be warm and gracious.

In addition to their currency, the dirham, Moroccan vendors accept Euros, British pounds, and $ dollars.

In case you were wondering: Humphrey Bogart NEVER came here and the film Casablanca was shot entirely in Hollywood.

To Go Or Not To Go--THAT is The Question

2011-03-11T07:21:00.004-05:00

It is possible (and maybe likely) that my Morocco/Canary Islands/Granada cruise will not go to Morocco. Since my only reason for choosing this cruise (on the Jade) was to add Morocco to my growing list of counties and places I have visited (55+), the prospect of not seeing Morocco is extremely unappealing.

Inspired by the recent nationwide protests in Tunisia, Egypt, Bahrain and others, Moroccan youth, used Facebook to mobilize citizens frustrated by status quo.

The result: On February 20, citizens in 52 Moroccan cities, in their “movement for dignity” protested the frustration of some Moroccans with a government they believe has done little to combat corruption. The protesters are demanding constitutional reform, the dissolution of parliament, and the lowering of food prices, among other things. Although it was reported that protests in al-Hoceima and other towns and cities were peaceful, acts of vandalism and looting took place after the rallies.

There are also many confirmations that the King of Morocco is loved by the people because of some of his progressive moves and, he is considered, after all, a descendant of the prophet Mohammed.

Later, I scoured the internet and discovered that future demonstrations were planned for every Sunday leading up to the grand protest (and ultimatum to the King) day: March 20. Guess who was scheduled to arrive in Casablanca on Sunday, March 20!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(Of note, this did NOT make mainstream news in the US)

At this point, I was convinced we would not touch Morocco.

Many of us on Cruise Critic (CC) discovered this news and began to chat and worry. We subsequently discovered a blogger on the February 25 sailing (on our Jade itinerary) who revealed The Jade DID NOT make it’s to scheduled Morocco stops on February 27 (Casablanca) and 28 (Agadir). They found out upon boarding the ship in Barcelona.

We all understand the cruise line’s decision to avoid Morocco for safety reasons. Yet, with the Mediterranean surrounded by 23 countries with more than 70 great port of call options, they substituted 1) a sea day and 2) Lanzarote, a teeeeny volcanic Canary Island that even Spaniards have never heard of and its part of SPAIN. We all felt this is unacceptable.

A CC campaign began where we mobilized to try to procure information directly from the cruise line while many expressed their views about the cruise lines LAME choice of alternates for Casablanca and Agadir: a sea day and Lanzarote!

Here are some of the Comments from CC posters: “I am only taking the cruise for Morocco”, “they should take us any way and we will use our judgment”, “why not Cadiz, or interesting ports in Italy or France”, “We Europeans don’t mind visiting more Canary Islands”, “Moroccans love their King so it’s not a dangerous protest”, “I have private pre-paid tours that I can’t cancel”, “I am calling the travel insurance company for a refund” and so on……

I must have invested more than 12 hours researching alternative ports, contacting the cruise lines, hotel, and Malaga private tour company, clarifying my insurance rules, calculating cruise and airline penalties, and even found two different and great cruises for great prices (that I put on hold).

I was MENTALLY exhausted.

After realizing how much trouble it would be to cancel, and the cost would be 20% of the total cost AND I’d be left with cruise line and airline credits (not cash) I decided to stick with the original plan.

Many others on CC agreed we will keep a positive attitude and enjoy whatever happens. We will all meet on our first sea day (March 19) in Le Bistro at 11AM

I will board my flight for Barcelona on March 15, spend 2 nights in that vibrant city then board my cruise on March 18 at 7PM. Only the crystal ball knows where it will take us on March 20 and 21.

Morocco Tour March 21, 2011

2011-02-26T11:02:00.001-05:00

I will take a private group tour with Abdou who lives in Taroudant, Morocco, next month.

In response to a question about possible instability and protests affecting our tour, he gave this reply:

"All is safe here, and as much as Moroccans want to bring a good change to Morocco, they stand united against any attempts to change the regime. We love the king and every one agrees about this.

There has been some talking about another peaceful demonstration late April, but nothing confirmed. Morocco however is different from other Arab countries and the people enjoy more freedoms so peaceful demonstrations are nothing new. The monarchy is also 12 centuries old and Moroccans care for this institution. Only concern we have is that there are always trouble-makers that would get in the middle of a peaceful march and make things look awful.'' Abdou

Cruise to Morocco, Canary Islands, Granada, Spain SOON

2011-02-12T11:59:00.003-05:00

I will take another cruise on my favorite NCL Jade ship to Morocco, The Canary Islands, and Granada Spain; round-trip from Barcelona. I will be in a mini-suite on the 11th deck.

Here is the itinerary:

March 16 and 17: I will spend two days in vibrant Barcelona
March 18 Ship leaves Barcelona
March 19 Day at sea
March 20 Casablanca
March 21 Agadir and Taroudant
March 22 Las Palmas, Canary Islands
March 23 Funchal, Portugal
March 24 Day at Sea
March 25 Malaga, Granada, visit Alhambra
March 26 Day at Sea
March 27 Back to Barcelona-Back to Miami

Vietnam: What a Dollar Can Buy You

2010-12-19T13:12:00.004-05:00

Vietnam is one of the best places to visit if you like beautiful scenery, friendly and gracious people, rich history, scrumpcious food, and bargain prices. They even accept US dollars everywhere—but you must sharpen your bargaining skills to secure the best deals. I am considering a return trip (along with a visit to Cambodia) with the group with whom I toured Viet Nam and Thailand in 2005.
Here is what $1 (Or 20,000 Viet Namese dong) will purchase in 2010:

• 1 Vietnamese conical hat (non la) (I bought one in Halong Bay last time)
• 7 liters of drinking water
• 2 tickets to the Temple of Literature in Hanoi
• 2 chilled Halida beers
• 1 day of bicycle rental
• 2 Vietnamese coffees with sweet condensed milk
• 15 minutes of air time on a Mobifone sim card
• 1 bowl of pho bo (they consume this at breakfast, lunch, and dinner)
• 1 small load of laundry
• 250 grams of candied ginger
• 1 Chinese lantern made of bamboo and fabric
• 40 quail eggs
• 1.25 liters of gasoline

Alexandria--Modern and Ancient

2010-11-30T10:44:00.002-05:00

Today, we explored Alexandria, Egypt’s 2nd largest city founded by Alexander the Great in 332BC.

This city, brought to life in history and film classes, is a modern city that continues to excavate layers of its former (ancient) civilizations buried beneath it.

Alexandria formerly houses one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world, The Pharos lighthouse. Unfortunately, it was destroyed by a series of earthquakes in the 12th and 14th centuries. Standing in its place is the imposing Fort Qaitbey, built in the 1480s by Sultan Qaitbey. From its elevated position, set back from the grand cornice (long waterfront walkway) the fort has fantastic views of Alexandria and out to sea. This was our first stop.

Next, we headed along the corniche, passing lots of seafront resort hotels, to the Montazah Palace and gardens, the summer home of the royal family.

Pompey’s Pillar and the Temple of Serapris ruins were next. Destroyed by Christians as they commonly destroyed pagan temples, the only part of the temple still standing is one of the pillars, known (incorrectly) as the Pillar of Pompey. We explored the impressive, fully preserved, intricate network of subterranean galleries (long dark passageways) with side chambers that housed statues of Gods, tools and equipment, food, and even the tombs of the revered Apis bulls. These ancient underground galleries survived destruction by the Christians and multiple earthquakes over the years.

Lunch was delectable seafood at a waterfront restaurant.

The highlight of the tour was the Alexandria Library and Cultural Center. More than a library that seats 2000, the modern new complex houses museums of antiquities and photography, a planetarium, a science museum, a children’s wing, and even a museum of the life of Anwar Sadat. His museum contains personal artifacts from his home, his office, medals, documents, photos, uniforms, his pipe, and even the suit he was wearing when he was assassinated in 1981.

Striking in its architecture, the main library is encased in a giant cylindrical building at the northern end of the waterfront. The circular outer wall is made of Aswan granite engraved with letters from world alphabets. The roof which tilts toward the sea is designed to angle sunlight onto the desks of the 7-tier 2000-seat reading rooms. The library contains 8000 volumes, none of which, however, can be checked out. You can download 25% of a volume in 4 sittings in order to read an entire book.

There is also a vast online collection. I will get to know this library better when I return home.

Of course, this library was constructed to commemorate the 3rd century BC library that had been the finest in the ancient world, before it was destroyed by fire.
The last stop on our tour was the Roman Ampitheatre. It was discovered (uncovered) beneath the rubble of a construction project in 1965. Can you imagine living in a city where they stumble upon centuries-old ruins with intact mosaic floors from the 2nd century AD?

We had a great 2 days in Cairo and Alexandria!

Cairo and Giza

2010-11-30T10:43:00.001-05:00

Posts coming later..............

Ephesian Splendor

2010-11-27T12:23:00.001-05:00

Here is what I tweeted about my day in Ephesus: Spent the day with the Ephesians touring the ancient city of Ephesus in Turkey. Now I know why some feel it’s their favorite port of call on this cruise.

Our ship docked at 9AM in Izmir, Turkey’s 2nd largest port and 3rd largest city. (I missed the Ephesus tour last year because I caught the evil 1-day stomach virus rampant on the ship.) Cem, our tour guide, was a gracious host to our group of 9 (4 couples and me) who met online. Our driver headed towards Selcuk.

Today we toured Ephesus, founded in the 6000 BC. It is here they say Paul preached to the Ephsesians and where the “virgin” Mary spent her last days. We even visited the famous “House of Mary”, at Bulbul Hill, a shrine where Christians visit on pilgrimages from all other the world. The shrine is simple and rather sweet. Naturally, the shops outside sell more Mary and Catholic souvenirs than one can imagine.

Next, was our tour of Ephesus that showcases some of the best preserved ancient ruins in the Mediterranean-- some say even better than those at Pompeii. As impressive as the site is, only 1/8 has been excavated.

Our comprehensive tour of the ruins lasted roughly 2 hours. We saw the 24,000 seat amphitheatre, the Marble Street, the Agora, the famous library, baths, the brothel and much more. We even arranged for an exclusive visit of the fantastic Terrace Houses, famous for their frescoes and mosaics, reflecting the housing texture and architecture of their time. (we had to pre-reserve this visit and pay an additional fee).

We learned the big amphitheatre holds concerts for greats such as Elton John and Joan Baez.

Lunch was served in a typical Turkish setting and included multiple cold and hot dishes: salads, hummus, tziki, eggplant, pita, lamb, chicken kebabs, chickpeas, rice, fresh fruits, and more. Service was 5* and the meal was the best I have had thus far on the cruise. 2 in our group wanted to explore purchasing a carpet. After a factory tour and demonstration, they felt overwhelmed with the myriad choices and declined to purchase a rug.

Next on our tour was a visit of St John’s Basilica and Castle, The (remains of) Temple of Artemis/Diana (one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world), and the Selcuk Museum that houses an impressive collection of original items from Ephesus and Selcuk.

The weather was perfect, sunny and upper 60s, and there were NO crowds. It must be like an oven here during the summer months.

I was a thoroughly satisfied customer at the end of our tour. We did not even need to rush back to the ship, instead, we took a leisurely ride and arrived 1 hour and 15 minutes before departure. (just enough to shop inside the pier!!)

Again: now I understand why some feel it’s their favorite port of call on this cruise.

Sea Days Are Invigorating-I ove The Sea!!!!!

2010-11-25T10:39:00.000-05:00

There is nothing more relaxing than sitting out on deck (or on my balcony) of a cruise ship—whether we are at sea or in port!!

Photos later

Crete instead of Athens on cruise today

2010-11-25T10:37:00.001-05:00

Full Article coming soon…………..

Riots in Athens so ship went to Crete instead. It was a beautiful, sunny day in Crete. I took the local bus (2Euros) to visit The Palace of Knossos constructed 6000BC (6Euros). Then, I walked around the charming streets of Iraklion.

I feel bad for people who had Athens on their bucket list. Some had invested lots of time planning Athens tours. Glad I have been many times. I was here several years ago and stayed at the Creta Maris resort on the beach.

We saw young people rioting peacefully here (protesting I guess). Perhaps the are protesting University prices as they are in England.

Perfect day touring Rome from cruise ship

2010-11-24T09:15:00.005-05:00

I had the perfect day touring Rome with 6 great folks. Highlights were visiting the inside of the Colosseum; having a guided tour of Vatican City including St Peters and the Sistine Chapel;Seeing Trevi Fountain, The Pantheon, and The Spanish Steps.

7AM awoke (with no wake up call)
7AM room service breakfast
Dressed, ate, and packed knapsack
Rained hard from 730-755ish
740AM met group in lobby
3 couples + Karla went into a 7-passenger mini-van with Fabio our driver and guide for our full day in Rome.
--Tom and Rosemary-Ottawa rolockett@hotmail.com
--Susie and Joel -Portland, OR suzierue@yahoo.com
--Jason and Mike-San Francisco

It was the perfect day with the perfect group. We all met online on cruisecritic.com where Tom set up the trip and invited others to join. We split the cost of 650 Euros for the van and guides for the day (8AM til 4:45PM). The ship left at 7PM.

We got along sooo well: No conflict, everyone was friendly, everyone was cooperative and punctual----we stuck closely together. They are all frequent cruisers who really like NCL. They all book balconies, suites, penthouses, and villas. Everyone loves the 5 days at sea in between port visits!! They all like the Jade and feel it is the perfect size ship. (there are virtually NO KIDS on this cruise) We paid 1/3 of what NCL tours charged to be in a small van that is easy to navigate and squeeze into tight places. Fabio was awesome; Katerina, our Vatican City guide was awesome and passionate. I will join them on an Athens tour (in 2 days) since we got along so well. (I was going to take the train into Athens and tour it solo). We walked lots, climbed lots of stairs, made only one restroom stop at 1:00, did no shopping, and we chose not to stop for a meal (we munched on snacks we had brought). Since we skipped lunch, we had more time for touring and did not have to rush back to the ship.

Firsts for me:
--Going inside the Colloseum
--Guided tour of Vatican museum, St Peters, and Sistine Chapel.

Everyone had a positive attitude and intellectual curiosity.
No one complained.
Everyone was easy-going and flexible.
We all agreed we were perfect travel companions.
We all agreed it could not have been a better day.

I sat out on the aft deck as we sailed out of the port at 7PM. I watched the twinkling lights fade to darkness. I was one of 3 people out there.
I felt like a master of the sea.

Barcelona-The 4th most visited city in Europe.

2010-11-23T14:57:00.000-05:00

Article coming soon

Taking the same cruise on same ship

2010-11-23T14:54:00.001-05:00

12-Day Eastern Mediterranean w. Egypt on the NCL Jade

Article coming soon.......

Excited to return to Egypt, Rome, Athens, Malta, & Turkey from Barcelona

2010-11-17T16:31:00.010-05:00

November 21-December 3, 2010

I am excited to return to the Eastern Mediterranean plus Egypt Cruise on the NCL Jade!
I will be on the same floor as last year, in a nearby balcony room.

Sunday Barcelona
Monday Day at Sea
Tuesday Rome
Wednesday Day at Sea
Thursday Athens, Greece-Thanksgiving
Friday Izmir, Turkey
Saturday Day at Sea
Sunday Cairo
Monday Alexandria
Tuesday Day at Sea
Wednesday Malta
Thursday Day at Sea
Friday Barcelona---fly back to Miami December 3

Cruised on the Epic for Halloween

2010-11-09T21:12:00.009-05:00

I cruised on the Epic for it’s 1st Halloween cruise Oct 31-Nov 6, 2010. The Epic is NCL's newest most innovative, 4,100 passenger cruise ship. Here are some of my notes and observations (I made throughout the trip) followed by tweets and Facebook posts!!

Epic Reflections
• Doesn’t feel like a ship---more like a floating (Vegas-style) hotel
• 2 bowling allies
• 3 water slides
• 21 dining establishments
• REAL SHOWS: Blue Man, Cirque Dreams, Second City, Legends at Sea. Must reserve seats. Pay for Cirque Dreams dinner theatre
• No window rooms (inside OR balcony)
• Swedish Ice bar—they give you parkas and gloves
• Old fashioned candy shop
• Enclosed deck areas—almost no feeling of wind in hair
• Complete Russian/Finish-style Banya Spa with 2 steam rooms/ovens lounge chairs on balcony facing sea with unobstructed view restricted to 60 couples $199 for cruise
• Largest outdoor TV screen
• Large screen in atrium. Great screen saver, NFL, movies, WI games
• Face recognition software compiles all rooms photos and photos are accessed via kiosk with room key (like ATM)
• No grand staircase in atrium with glass elevators
• Blues club—Louie and Roadsters is great!
• Lobster night was OK
• No chocoholic buffet (all other NCLs have one)
• Howl at Moon dueling pianos sing along
• Manhattan Club--Main dining room is super club w. band and dance floor and shows
• Huge state of the art gym
• Forced to walk thru casino
• Casino almost entire 6th floor. Even games by pool and a bar with built in slot machines
• Swipe for entry to 4 main shows
• Balcony rooms small and tight squeeze. Probably smallest in the industry. Advise: Get deluxe balcony or higher category. No desk in balcony room.
• NO FREE in-room movies. Only one off beat TV channel. Must pay $9.99 per movie (NEVER seen THIS before!)
• Lots of storage space in staterooms
• Touch screens with maps, restaurant availability, show schedules etc
• Nice wide aisles in Garden Café
• 3 water slides
• Lots of Jacuzzis
• Separate adults club with great free snacks
• Irish pub with good snacks etc
• Must leave key card in room to activate lights
• Roatan, Honduras: Took 2.5 hour island tour for $25 pp. Marley was tour guide. Lots of development on this formerly undeveloped fishing town
• Cozumel-good shopping
• Best Halloween party ever—more than 100 in the costume parade/contest.
• Lots of babies and obese people
• Second City Comedy was Awesome!
• Cirque Dreams supper theatre has a great menu. Impressive show!! Paid $30 p/p for premium seating.
• Comedy Magician was awesome!
• Michael Jackson in Legends At Sea is VERY talented. Nailed MJ
• Room service good and prompt
• Overall, the SERVICE was excellent!! Everyone was EXTREMELY gracious and helpful

Tweets and Facebook Posts:
Having a great time on the NCL Epic which is like a floating (Vegas-style) hotel. All new technologies onboard this innovative vessel.

The NCLEpic has the largest TV screen at sea, 3 water slides, state of the art gym and spa, 2 bowling alleys, blues club, comedy club and lots more.
Cozumel today.

Cirque Dreams supper theatre tonight. Still in port due to heavy winds in port of Cozumel. Don’t know when the Epic will sail. It’s 11:45PM Thursday and we were supposed to leave at 5:30PM. UPDATE: We finally left at 9AM the next day (today). It was sooo windy that the enormous EPIC couldn’t leave port. Apparently, an unpredicted storm rolled into western Caribbean. We are rockin and rollin today.

Another fun-filled, relaxing cruise with dancing, great dining, watching great Vegas-style shows, lobster night, folded animal towels, trivia contests, visits to exotic ports of call, comedy and magic shows, Blue Man, Cirque Dreams, swimming, poolside games, movies, music, destination lectures, shopping, and the best Halloween party ever!

7 favorite things about Epic cruise
1 Best Halloween party ever—more than 100 in the costume parade/contest
2 Being on a new ship.
3 People watching
4 Being at sea
5 24-hour food choices
6 The fabulous shows
7 No phones ringing.

Going on the Epic’s 1st Halloween Cruise!!

2010-10-29T08:08:00.007-05:00

NCL made us an upgrade offer we couldn’t refuse! We are going on a different cruise on a different ship.

We are now leaving one day earlier (Saturday, October 30th) on the Norwegian EPIC instead of the NCL Pearl. The EPIC is their newest ship (it’s only 3 months old) holding 4,100 passengers plus 1,700 crew and has 19 decks and 21 dining venues. We already have tickets for the Blue Man Group, Cirque Dreams, The Second City and Legends in Concert.

It’s a one week cruise in the Western Caribbean.
We have a midship balcony room in the newly designed rooms with a separate tub and shower, etc. NCL waived all additional costs (prices) for the EPIC vs the Pearl.

I have added our names to the Meet&Greet party roster on Cruise Critic.

The Halloween party should be fantastic!!!

Epic: Here we come!!

Taking A 7-Night Eastern Caribbean Cruise on NCL

2010-10-12T14:08:00.004-05:00

From October 31-November 7,2010, Joel and I will cruise to: The Dominican Republic, St Thomas, The British Virgin Islands and The Bahamas WITH 2 relaxing days at sea. We got a great last minute deal on a mid-ship balcony room! I am connected to fellow cruisers on Cruise Critic and see that there will be a big Halloween Parade the 1st night!

Caribbean here we come!

Stockholm, Sweden from Baltic Capitals Cruise

2010-07-08T09:43:00.003-05:00

This was our last port of call on our 7-country itinerary. I decided to take the NCL Stockholm by Land & Sea Tour (my 1st ship tour) because the logistics of going to Stockholm (using buses and trains) are complicated and time-consuming.

I met the group at 7:30AM for our 25 minute tender to the port of Nynashamn. From there, we took an hour drive to the city of Stockholm.

Stockholm is a beautiful city on 14 islands linked by 40 bridges. We began our day at The Royal Palace where we saw the changing of the guards. Then, we took a walking tour of Gamla Stan, the historic old town with cobblestone streets and buildings dating back 500 years. The narrow streets brim with bookstores and antiques and souvenir shops, and medieval cellars are now restaurants and cafés. The streets are so narrow that bicycles could barely pass through. The Noble Museum (of Noble Prize fame is located here).

I munched on a muffin and banana I brought from the ship (for lunch).

Next, the coach took us to another island to see Stockholm’s most popular museum, The Vasa Museum. The warship Vasa was the pride of the Swedish Navy. Commissioned by the King to hold two floors of guns, its maiden voyage was to be a celebration for the entire city. Instead, minutes into the voyage, it sank to the bottom of the harbor. It was 333 years before it was salvaged by a determined archeologist. The whole lifting of the Vasa in 1961, was televised live for the world to witness. More than 1200 objects including weapons, shoes, pottery, and tools. It is considered to be one of the most important events in marine archeology. I watched a 25 minute film on the lifting of the Vasa. I wish we had more time to explore this engaging interactive (new:1990) museum.

We completed our tour with a boat cruise along Stockholm’s picturesque waterways. The weather and sites were perfect!

I was impressed to read that Sweden is one of the most generous countries in the world, donating billions in monetary aid and training to nations in need as well as rewarding achievements in science, literature, medicine, and world peace. Her economy is considered Europe’s 2nd most competitive behind Denmark’s. Sweden is so aggressively developing renewable energy that it hopes to be petroleum-free by 2020.

Stockholm is clean, modern, and the people are very pleasant. Yes, they are very blonde.

Helsinki from Baltic Capitals Cruise

2010-07-08T09:42:00.001-05:00

Article coming soon

St Petersbug, Russia Day #2

2010-07-05T10:09:00.003-05:00

I asked our tour guide, Maria, if tourism was a leading industry in St Petersburg. She responded NO because of the stringent Visa requirements. Not only does a foreigner require a Visa, but they are required to have the Visa registered. Because I took a tour from a cruise ship AND with a local company, the tour company provided the registered Visa, in advance. Otherwise, it would have cost minimally $175+ recommendations from a Russian authority for entry. We had to show our tour ticket and go through passport control upon entering and exiting, both days of our tour.

Our tour group met outside of customs earlier today at 7:45. We headed to the center of town where we boarded boats for our guided canal tour of St Petersburg’s waterways. We covered all the major sites from palaces, to churches, to museums, to monuments, to parks, to famous boulevards. It was a perfect morning for a canal tour. St Petes 4th sunny day—in a row. (This is unheard of!)

Next we went directly to Peterhoff, Peter the Great’s dream “garden of paradise”, complete with gilded palace, a variety of fountains (they have lost count), lushly landscaped parks, and monuments to great leaders, (and even statues of Adam&Eve). When Peter designed it, he ensured he could travel by boat from St Pete directly to the Palace. He lived and traveled on the water as much as possible. The most loved section is the vast lower garden. The Great Cascade Fountain comprises 3 waterfalls, 64 fountains, and 37 gilded statues. Many other fountains are contained in the lower gardens including “trick fountains” that are turned on by “magic” stones.

It is hard to believe that when the Nazis were finally driven out of this area, toward the end of WWII, that almost everything was in ruins. Much was restored years later.

We took the hydrofoil back to the city.

Lunch was a traditional pickled soup with meat&vegetables and blinis with ham and cheese. Dessert was pistachio ice cream.

Our final stop was The Church on Spilled Blood, constructed to commemorate Tsar Alexander II on the very spot where he was assassinated. This church is my favorite because of the beautiful, multicolored, mosaic onion domes. Inside more than 20 types of minerals, including jasper, rhodonite, and Italian marvel are lavished on the mosaics of the icons, canopy, and floor. Religious scenes created in mosaics blanket the interior and even inside the domes. It is an impressive structure and reminds me of St Basils in Moscow. The (atheist) Soviets had scheduled the bombing of this church but plans got delayed. In the meantime, it was used as a storage facility for vegetables, for years, while it fell into disrepair. Fortunately, the government undertook its restoration so the world can now enjoy this magnificent structure.

Our tour ended at 5:00. We were back on the ship in time for our 7PM departure.

It was sad saying goodbye to Russia who surpassed my expectations on all accounts.

St Petersburg Russia Day#1

2010-07-05T10:08:00.003-05:00

St Petersburg from cruise—Day#1. The Venice of the North July 4, 2010

Here is a primer on St Petersburg.

Tsar Peter the Great hated Moscow (traumatized as a child by attempted coup). He loved the sea. He embarked on a lengthy tour of Western Europe where he learned their “modern ways and culture”. He sharpened his knowledge of ship building in the Netherlands, and learned about naval and military affairs from England. 300 years ago, he decided to build a new, modern capital city—a paradise on earth---on the water. He built it on the swampy Neva River. His goal was to build a city with European grandeur: imperial gold palaces, canals, attractive bridges, broad boulevards, candlelit cathedrals, lush gardens and parks, and impressive monuments that rivaled the best of the Netherlands, Great Britain, France, Germany, Austria and others. The city covers more than 40 islands, many connected by bridges adorned with sculptures and wrought iron. Peter also transformed society so that it conformed to more modern western standards. For example, he banned the boyars from wearing beards. The result: A stunning planned city of opulence, beauty, and order.

Day #1 St Petersburg
Instead of taking the ships tours, I explored private tour options with reputable local tour companies.

I selected SPB Tours, the company with whom I toured Berlin. I would hire them again! I prefer touring in small groups and the price is typically 1/3 to ½ less than the cruise ship’s tours.

The itinerary was packed with important city highlights. The tour guide, Maria Malakhova, m.malakhova@gmail.net, was excellent. (her English was impeccable although she had never studied outside of Russia and she was certified to give tours on many topics, including 8-hour tours of the Hermitage). She kept us on track, shared valuable information, and was very professional.

We crammed into 1 day what many others would include in a 3-day visit. The same was in store for us Day#2.

--Ist we took a Subway ride. (Tech Institute stop) Because it was Sunday, it was not very crowded. I would never survive here alone because the Russian Alphabet is not recognizable to me. She took us into modern, beautifully-adorned stations.

--Next, we toured the opulent Catherine’s Palace with the famed Amber Room—a room completely covered in amber, even the ceiling. Unfortunately, the Nazis raided most of Russia’s treasured palaces and had even bombed Catherine’s Palace. After WWII, futile attempts were made to locate the amber panels; eventually, Russia restored them in a decade’s long project.

--Lunch-buffet lunch with lots of potatoes and pickled items. Nothing to write home about.

--Hermitage Museum--Known for its Rembrandts, Leonardos, Goyas, Raphaels and others, it is a vast museum that holds 3 million exhibits from paintings and sculpture to archeological finds. Our tour guide whisked us past the 3-hour long line right into The Hermitage. It is a collection of buildings on the Neva that include the original Winter Palace (it out-does Versailles). Every room was meticulously designed to complement the works it holds.

--Peter and Paul Fortress and Cathedral of Peter and Paul—the date on which construction began (1703) is celebrated as the birth date of St Petersburg. The fortress served primarily as a political prison. Even Peter’s son (Alexi, who was later executed for treason) was imprisoned here.

The Peter and Paul Cathedral is adorned by single, gilded spire whose height made the church the city’s tallest building for more than 2 centuries. Apparently, the pulpit was used only once-- to excommunicate Leo Tolstoy for his denouncement of the Russian Orthodox Church. The cathedral houses the tombs of all the Russian Tsars. They are tastefully laid out inside marble and gilded tombs
Next to the church is a boat house that holds a model of Peter’s childhood boat.

What a busy, enlightening day, in a city that is a feast for the eyes. We had record-breaking sunshine and warm temperatures (in the 80s). Russians were lying out sunbathing all along the P&P Fortress. The sunshine had everyone smiling. It was the 3rd continuous day of sunshine in St Petersburg. Maria told us this NEVER happens.

I must say: I did not feel I was in an oppressive environment. I also realize I was receiving VIP treatment as a welcomed (and Visa-registered) tourist.

I couldn’t wait for day#2 of our St Petersburg journey.

Talinn, Estonia from Cruise

2010-07-05T10:07:00.003-05:00

If you are not familiar with Estonia, one of the Baltic States, you are not alone.

Estonia, along with Latvia and Lithuania, has been largely ignored by the West. Only Germany and Russia took notice as they played violent tug-of-war with these nations. Ravaged by WWII, they were first invaded by the Russia, then Germany, then were forced into the Soviet Union. They waited patiently to be rescued by NATO-- who pledged to fight back against encroaching communism—but NATO never came. The Baltic States eventually had to rescue themselves.

As soon as these nations threw off the Soviets, they all declared independence in 1991. Soon after, they quickly joined both the EU and NATO to help with economic stability and defense.

They are best known for:
Estonia---The well preserved medieval town of Tallinn—one of the best preserved in Europe. It’s tradition of Song.
Latvia—Beachfront vacation getaways; Riga, (it’s lively capital full of artists, chic restaurants, and a wild nightlife); and Mikhail Baryshnikov
Lithuania—Once co-ruled much of Europe with Poland. Black Markets and Mafia presence. Spirited resisters of the Soviet occupation.

Ethnicities, languages, and culture vary greatly among The Baltic States. The languages are so dissimilar that if an Estonian speaks with a Latvian or a Latvian speaks with a Lithuanian, they must rely on their English or Russian language skills.

Famous Estonian Saying There really is no summer here; just 3 bad months for skiing. (not for us today. It felt like at least 80° by midday).

Estonia is the smallest and most northern of the Baltic States with a population of 1.4 million.

It is internet savvy, has a high HIV positive rate, and like the Finns, they have wife-carrying contests.LOL!

Of note, Estonia is the first country to establish a flat tax of 26%.

My Tallinn visit—July 3, 2010

What struck me as our ship approached Tallinn was how picturesque this town of churches, towers, and a hill is. It took my breath away. I photographed it obsessively.

Today, after a nice breakfast, I headed into the beautiful town of Tallinn, Estonia. A bazaar of local vendors selling a variety of wares (sweater, metal works, woolens, symbols of Estonia, leather goods, ceramics, amber (very popular in Northern Europe), furry hats/gloves,etc) was there to greet us. I purchased a beautiful guide book ($12US) with excellent photos (to accompany all my maps and book chapters) I was surprised they were ready to accept ALL currencies. I paid in $US.

Just as I was heading to town on foot, in search of the famous old town, I saw the HopOnHopOff HOHO buses. For 12Euros, I hopped on and connected the headset. I toured stops 1-6 that included the modern downtown area, some suburbs, and the park with the Song Festival band shell, etc. (I would never have scene modern Tallinn had I not taken this tour.)

By the time I descended in the Upper Town near the Toompea Castle, at 1020AM, it was 75° and sunny. Perfect. (We have had perfect warm and sunny weather so far on our cruise).

Old town is divided into upper and lower town. The lower town was inhabited by craftsmen and free citizens. The upper town housed the knights, gentry, and clergy. Each city had its own laws and the two rarely mixed except in conflict. Both are designed with an intricate labyrinth of red-roofed buildings and cobblestoned streets, some of which lead up to Toompea Hill or down to the Town Hall Square. First I visited the upper town sites of the magnificent Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Toompea Castle, Holy Ghost Church, and Kiek in de Kok Tower.

I took the Pikk yalg (long leg path) down to the Town Hall Square passing numerous crafts shops, restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops along the way. The town takes “re-living medieval times” seriously. Vendors everywhere are dressed in ye olde garments. It is quite funny. I bought a little Viking for my collection of miniatures from around the world. I felt perfectly comfortable in town.

I took a delightful visit of the City Museum (Venne street) that houses artifacts from the 14th century till present, including tools, clothing, coats of arms, pottery, and replicas of scenes from everyday life complete with sound effects. There were life-size models of crafts folk, families, clergy, and nautical men. There are also interactive maps and videos contemporary videos demonstrating Estonian solidarity against Soviet Rule. I read it was the best museum, so I went. It was the first place I encountered that only takes Estonian currency. So I paid the $5 (or so) with a credit card.

After 4 hours (total) I headed for my HOHO bus to take me back to the ship.

What a delightful visit to a picture perfect town.

Baltic Capitals Berlin Day 3 of cruise

2010-07-02T04:17:00.006-05:00

What a thought provoking visit to East and West Berlin today. I am blown away by the complexity of this city’s history. It is probably the most schizophrenic major city because for 42 years, it held two distinctly different cultures and served at least two masters. One with a thriving, modern economy, and citizens who were free to move around; the other, oppressed, repressed, and a wing of the Soviet Union. Yet, neither had full civil rights as part of Germany.

Everywhere there are markers of its dark Nazi past, its occupation by Russia, the devastation of war, and the massive abuses of power. At the same time, hope shines today, in this city of renovation, creation, and construction cranes. Guilt-ridden by the shame of Nazi Germany’s horrors, Berlin has attempted to shed its past by demolishing most sites associated with that era, and rebuilding using the latest advances in technology and the most contemporary architectural styles.

What struck me is how pivotal a role Berlin played as a pawn between the US and Russia during the cold War. One perceived misstep by one side and one overreaction by the other could have easily led to WWIII. The Checkpoint Charlie incident in 1961, is one such example of American and Russian tanks coming head to head in a stand-off that had the world’s attention. There was posturing on both sides, but the Potsdam agreement intervened to prevent an irrevocable and fatal move.

Our Agenda

After breakfast at 7, I met my small, private tour group for our 3 hour coach ride into the city. The ship docked at (Warnemunde).

Our first stops were visits to Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, Potsdamer Platz, Tiergarten, and Ku Damn. Then we went to the Brandenburg Gate and WALKED THRU IT, the Reichstag, Sections of the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie (more people visited this than Rome in 2009), The Book Burning Memorial, The site of Hitler’s Bunker (and where he committed suicide as Russian tanks pulled into Berlin), and the moving Memorial to The Murdered Jews.

1/3 of the city is covered by natural attractions---gardens, lakes, woodlands, and parks.

Our tour guide, Dereck from Toronto was knowledgeable and passion about his subject.

We heard lots of stories of the building of the wall, gripping tales of ingenious escape attempts, and scenes of ecstatic Berliners poring thru the gates and tearing down the wall in 1989.

We even saw the buildings were the Valkerie Plot was conceived and where Hitler drafted his first plans for world domination, (long before the start of WWII).

We were thoroughly satisfied with our tour. The weather was pleasant—warm, and sunny.

We had traditional Bavarian fare for lunch. (my pretzel was good, my veal sausage was edible).

Some things I learned

Angela Merkel grew up in East Germany under Soviet rule. (first German ruler to grow up in under communism)

Hitler likely used the fire at the Reichstag as an excuse to launch his assault on Jews and communists and to broaden the Aryan empire. Shortly after that incident, he transformed Germany from a democracy to a dictatorship where all civil rights were expunged.

The US airlifted supplies into Germany for more than a year when Stalin attempted a blockade of West Berlin. West Berlin was such a potent symbol—the Allies fought to hold onto it. Stalin eventually reopened the roadways giving access.

There were two walls: an inner wall that separated East and West Berlin and an outer wall that surrounded the entire city to control the flow in and out of Soviet East Berlin.

We made it back to the ship before 9, for a 10PM departure.

I love standing out on deck watching this ship pull away. The townspeople of Warnemunde waved us goodbye.

It is still light outside!

Tomorrow: a day at sea

Have not watched the news since ship left London

Copenhagen Baltic Capital Cruise Port #1

2010-06-30T09:03:00.005-05:00

Copenhagen-City of spires, canals, smiles, and bicycles

Today, was our first port visit on our Baltic Capitals cruise. I opted to tour the city via the convenient hop-on-hop-off (HOH)) tour buses. Fortunately, they made a special pick up for us at Friborg (port).

I visited The Rosenborg Palace, Tivoli, Town Hall, Nyhvn, Christiania (hippie compound since the early 70s), Amalienborg Palace (residence of royal family). Bicycles are the top mode of transport. Everyone rides them here and the city has free rental bikes stationed throughout the city.

I walked the entire Stroget, the pedestrian shopping street considered to be the longest pedestrian street in the world

It is TRUE: I WITNESSED it!-----Moms leave their babies in their strollers outside shops while they run errands. The Danes feel completely safe and secure with everyone.

Things I probably used to know about Denmark that I mostly forgot-(I was here in 1986!)

It is one of Northern Europe’s busiest harbors.

Greenland is owned by Denmark.

It is one of the most prosperous countries in Europe and its population of 5 million enjoy a high standard of living.

Denmark has the oldest monarchy in the world.

The Danes smuggled 7000 of its 7500 Jews out of Denmark into Sweden during WWII.

Sweden and Denmark were bitter enemies, at war, and stealing land back and forth for centuries.

Denmark was one of the founding EU member nations

The Little Mermaid, (for the first time in 97 years), is on loan to Shanghai for the 2010 World’s Fair. At the site where her statue normally rests, there is a webcam live-streaming her on location in China. (glad I saw her when I was here last) LOL!

Tivoli Gardens is what inspired Walt Disney in his designing of Disney World

Hans Christian had little formal education yet grew up to be one of the world’s greatest storytellers. He is beloved by children all over the world because their parents read his stories to them at bedtime. He wrote 150 fairy tales including The Ugly Duckling, Thumbelina, Little Mermaid, The Princess&Pea, and The Emperor Who Wore No Clothes. His works have been translated into more than 150 languages. In fact, HIS WORKS ARE THE MOST TRANSLATED AFTER THE BIBLE

Other observations/Comments

Their English language skill is impeccable

Denmark consistently ranks #1 as happiest nation in the world! This I knew and have blogged about several times.

I mailed a post card to me for my collection.

I am sending this via free WIFI at the port reception area. This way, I don’t have to use my ship minutes.

Know your new currencies before you go!

2010-06-27T08:48:00.008-05:00

I just made wallet-sized currency conversion cards for Swedish Kronor, Danish Kroner, Russian Ruble, British Pound and Euro (Finland and Germany). I read Estonian shops accept Euros and the country is ready to adopt the euro beginning on 1 January 2011.

Swedish Crown Princess Victoria weds a commoner

2010-06-21T11:09:00.003-05:00

The bbc.com reports: Crown Princess Victoria married Daniel Westling in a lavish ceremony
Sweden has celebrated a royal wedding between Crown Princess Victoria and her former fitness trainer.

Victoria, 32, tied the knot with 36-year-old commoner Daniel Westling.

More than 1,200 guests, including royals from around the world, attended the lavish ceremony in Stockholm Cathedral.

The couple, who met in 2002, later rode through the capital in a horse-drawn carriage as tens of thousands of people lined the streets.

Victoria was escorted down the aisle by her father. She is first in line to succeed him.

After exchanging vows, the couple took to the same royal barge that Victoria's parents, King Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Silvia, used on their wedding day exactly 34 years ago.

The newlyweds were transported to the Royal Palace, for an evening banquet with guests from around the world.

It is Sweden's first royal wedding since 1976.

Guests attending the festivities include the Norwegian and Danish royal families, Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands, Prince Albert of Monaco, and the UK's Earl and Countess of Wessex.

As Crown Princess Victoria's husband, gym owner Mr Westling has assumed the title of Prince Daniel, Duke of Vastergotland.

Sweden's monarchy has no political power, but the king or queen represents the nation and greets foreign dignitaries

Russia--planning for my trip

2010-06-20T15:09:00.000-05:00

Saint Petersburg Tour Itinerary

2010-06-20T08:36:00.009-05:00

Ambitious two days-July 4-5, 2010

Day 1--8AM-6PM
City tour and Subway ride through the city (8-930AM)
Visit of the summer residence (45 min drive)
Visit the Catherine’s Palace with the Amber Room (1030-1215)
Lunch at restaurant
The Hermitage museum (2-hour visit) (215-415)
Visit of Peter and Paul’s fortress/cathedral

Optional evening programs. (I will explore seeing the Russian ballet)

Experience the White Nights in Russia!

Day 2-- 830AM-5PM

Canal boat ride sightseeing tour of the city (9-10AM)
Visit Peterhoff Imperial Palace(hour drive) visit lower fountain park and upper gardens
Hydrofoil ride back to city (1-130PM)
Traditional Russian meal at local restaurant
Visit Church of our Savior on the Spilled Blood

7PM--ship departs Russia

Russia visit dominates cruise thoughts

2010-06-20T08:01:00.006-05:00

Egypt. She dominated my thoughts as I prepared for my six-country eastern Mediterranean cruise last December.

Russia. She now dominates my thoughts as I prepare for my seven-country Baltic capitals cruise, coming up in a week.

In preparation for my trip, I have immersed myself in the study of Russian culture, history, way of life, traditions, customs, tourist attractions, current events, government, and currency. I even watched Dr. Zhivago and we'll watch three more Russian films next week. During my reading, I came across this interesting summary of cross-cultural perspectives on Russia:

Writing a book that includes everything about contact with Russians would be extremely difficult. Russia, like any other country, has many different facets.

Americans like the scale of things in Russia and the Russian soul, but are irritated by the lack of service.

The English are drawn to Russian culture, but the inability to stand in a queue makes them indignant.

The Germans like Russian hospitality, but do not welcome the dirty streets and public places.

Italians like Russian friendship, but are not comfortable with the familiarity.

The Chinese like the Russian countryside, but cannot understand why things are done so slowly.

I look forward to my journey.

White Nights in Russia

2010-06-04T17:15:00.003-05:00

The White Nights describes the few weeks around the summer solstice in June in areas of high latitude during which sunsets are late, sunrises are early and darkness is never complete. The White Nights are a time of celebration in areas such as Saint Petersburg, Russia, where the Sun does not set until after 10 p.m., and the twilight lasts almost all night.

The White Nights Festival in Saint Petersburg is famous for spectacular fireworks and Scarlet Sails, a massive show celebrating the end of school year.

I look forward to seeing this July 4 and 5 in Russia!

Baltic Capitals Cruise on the NCL Sun---- June 28-July 10

2010-06-02T09:57:00.009-05:00

I decided to take another 12-night European Cruise in less than one month.
Specifically, I will visit 7 COUNTRIES: Denmark, (East) Germany, Sweden, Estonia, Finland, England, and Russia (overnight stay). 3 countries are new to me: Russia, Finland, and Estonia. Visiting East Germany will also be a first for me.

I am happy I will only have ONE flight—a direct Miami-London flight. The ship leaves from Dover, a port 2 hours from London.

I will take guided tours in St Petersburg and Berlin with a tour company recommended on Cruise Critic boards. In Stockholm, Copenhagen, Tallinn, and Helsinki, I will tour on my own. I am also signed up for the Meet&Greet onboard the NCL Sun, along with 64 others who are posted online. I have read many opinions and suggestions from 16 pages of posts.

I am especially excited to visit Russia for two days.

Interestingly, although 6 of the 7 countries are part of the European Union, only 2(Germany and Finland) utilize the Euro.

Baltic Capitals Here I Come!!

Malta-The most picturesque port on our 6-country cruise itinerary.

2009-12-17T09:22:00.002-05:00

Malta

The last port on our cruise is Valletta, Malta. Malta is a five-island country between Africa and Europe that is one of the most Catholic (320 churches on this tiny nation), and new to the EU. Known for its Knights of St John, Falcons, and being the most bombed nation in WWII. More than ½ million cruise tourists visit this charming port annually. Malta has its own language which is derived from Arabic and peppered with Italian. Most residents, however, speak English, as it was a British colony until 1964 when it declared independence.

I agree with everyone who feels this port is the most picturesque of all those on our tour. In fact, this port exemplifies picturesque!

I decided to tour the entire island by boarding a hop-on-hop-off sightseeing tour bus (15E). From atop the double-decker bus, we saw breathtaking views of this stunning island from the scenic coastal ways to the mazes inside the cobblestone streets of small villages.

Highlights of the tour included Fort Saint Elmo, St John Cathedral, a glass blowing factory, and the walled city of MDINA. The 8-pointed cross from the Crusading Knights can be seen everywhere.

Cruise Vacation-Two Days in Cairo

2009-12-17T09:06:00.012-05:00

Cairo from cruise NCL December 15-16, 2009

After connecting With Carolyn via Cruise Critic, I joined her group on the Cairo overnight tour with MemphisTours.com. There were 13 in our group. We booked our hotel, The Cairo Marriott Hotel & Omar Khayyam Casino, separately. I used reward points. The hotel is a former palace, built in the style of Versailles, to impress foreign dignitaries for the ceremony of opening of The Suez canal www.Cairomarriotthotel.com (description later in this post)

Day 1
A 5AM wake-up call found me excited about the adventure that awaited me.
My room service breakfast arrived on time and I met our group in the lobby (near reception) at 6:30AM. After disembarking at 7AM, we waited 20 minutes for our tour guide to arrive (much longer than all the other groups). We knew the drive to Giza was a 3-hour journey. We did not leave the port until 8AM—it seemed we were the last group to depart. Our van was old and not well-maintained.

In addition to our English speaking tour guide were the driver and a security professional dressed in black and packing a weapon, for our protection. Later, we realized this was standard protocol. Security is a major issue in Egypt—even the museums have metal detectors. As a result, I felt safer.

One of the first lessons from our tour guide was how to say, no thank you. La’ Shokran. He insists it will help deter the profoundly aggressive Giza vendors. (I kept it written inside my hand and referred to it periodically).

As we rode thru Alexandria, our guide pointed to sites: the library, the largest in the world; the stadium, the 2nd largest in the world.

I was surprised to see so many women wearing the full body abeya and for those not fully covered-they covered their heads.

There was such a mix of old and new.

Of note, Egypt was dominated by foreigners for 2600 years ending in 1952 with the 1st of only 3 Egyptian rulers.

Our Egyptologist joined us, en route. It took a while to adjust our ear to her dialect. She immersed herself in the study of Egyptian history and antiquities for more than six years. She is passionate and conscientious. She kept her head covered but wore western attire.

The ride was long yet well worth the time investment: I was moved to tears when the pyramids finally emerged on the horizon. It is for me, one of the most spectacular sites I have seen. It was the visit of a lifetime—a dream come true—to visit the Pyramids at Giza!!
I was in heaven!

Our first stop was the great pyramid, Khufu/Cheops (c. 2589BC). Next we stopped at a site where all 3 pyramids (tombs for father, son, and grandson) can be viewed. More great photo opps here. Then we walked over to the area where camel owners took riders on tours. Several in our group took camel rides. I took photos with camels, instead.

Our van drove us the end point of the camel caravan. There, we waited for the camel riders and took more photos. I got one of my best shots from this point.

Next, we drove to the famously photographed point where the Great Sphinx dominates the scene and the tomb of its creator, the Middle Pyramid of Khafre/Chephrenis, rests in the foreground. Another magnificent moment for this world traveler and lover of history.

Our guide took us inside a tomb next to the Sphinx and shared the history of its architecture. There we saw the seating for the nightly sound and light show. Perhaps I will see that on my next trip.

Of note, yes the vendors were aggressive but I have experienced far worse (Great Wall of China, Nassau markets etc.) AND I repeatedly replied La’ Shokran. They do a lot of bait-and-switch promotions. For example: one guy showed me a packet containing miniatures of the 3 pyramids PLUS Sphinx. He shouted ONE DOLLAR. (Yes, they take dollars in many tourist areas). My interest was stirred because I collect miniatures of famous sites all over the world. One dollar is always a good price for me! When I expressed interest, he clarified one dollar per item—which means $4 instead of $1 for the lot. I turned away and walked ahead. He immediately lowered the price; I kept rejecting his lowered rates. Three Dollars, then two dollars he cried out! I had agreed to ONE DOLLLAR---besides, I only had a ONE DOLLAR BILL folded inside my pocket (I left my purse on the tour bus for safekeeping).
At last, he conceded, OK ONE DOLLAR! We had a deal. I was deeply satisfied with my purchase.

I came, I saw, I conquered. I would add the “marble” miniatures to my Eiffel Tower, Statue of Liberty, Roman Coliseum, Taj Mahal, Big Ben, Great Wall, Corcavado, Liberty Bell, Parthenon, Arch de Triomphe, St Louis Arch, Golden Gate Bridge, Mannekin-Pis, Irish Leprechaun, Indonesian Garuda, Vietnamese Water girl, Seattle Needle, Chicago skyline etc.

I took more photos in front of the Sphinx. A guard volunteered to take me “touching the tip of the pyramid” and “kissing” the Sphinx. They reminded me of the shots I took with The Taj Mahal.

There was so much to savor.

Next, we drove 45 minutes to Memphis, the first capital of a united Egypt. What has been discovered there is gathered in a small, open-air museum. The first site there is the Sphinx of Memphis (largest calcite statue ever found). Naturally, many were gathered to take photographs. Most impressive, in its own viewing pavillion, was the colossal limestone Statue of Ramses II. It fills the building and can be viewed from two levels. The detail and massive-size of the great work rendered me speechless and in awe of ancient builders.

Our last site would close by 4 so (although we were starving) we headed there next. It was Saqqara, the site of Egypt’s earliest pyramid (c. 2650BC), the Step Pyramid of Djoser. Once again, I was blown away by the scale and sturdiness of the structures here. This remarkable structure marks a leap forward in the history of world architecture. Until then, Egyptian royal tombs had been underground rooms, covered with low, flat, mud brick. This trailblazing work was built with stone with 6 mastabas placed on top of one another. The last stage in pyramid building, from stepped to smooth-sided, took only 65 years. The Step Pyramid was the model for later tombs including the trio at Giza, which are perfectly formed, smooth-sided tombs.

One of the highlights of Saqqara was next. We toured the Tomb of Mereruka, with it’s famously, well preserved statue emerging from a “false” door. We toured its extensive complex of 33 underground chambers. Impressive were the prolific, intricate wall-paintings depicting hunters, tax evaders, farmers and more scenes from everyday life.

The Pyramid of Teti was next. Some of us crawled inside the descending, narrowing passage to reach the bottom I was dreading every moment, realizing I am somewhat claustrophobic (BTW, I would do it again!). Highlights were the ceiling decorated with stars, the walls inscribed with sections of Pyramid texts, and the king’s giant basalt sarcophagus.

Lunch. FINALLY.

We went to a “traditional” (recreated for tourists, of course) village complete with bread makers and musicians for a traditional Egyptian Feast. The tastes and smells were familiar: they brought heaping platters of pita, Swarma, hummus, tzitki, lamb, chicken, salad, Baklava and more.

It really hit the spot even though we waited TOO long to dine. Next time, I will pack extra lunch. I am glad I had brought banana and a muffin from the ship!

Next, some in the group wanted to shop for cartouche jewelry. We took them there and waited long for them to order. Next, that group wanted to buy souvenirs at a cotton factory. Inside were typical, uninspiring items that I could purchase for less, in the US. Civil war almost broke out in our group because we were way behind schedule—needing to check into our hotel—during rush hour—in time to make our 8PM Nile dinner cruise. Nonetheless, some wanted to continue shopping at the massive Khan al-Khalili, one of the largest bazaars in the Middle East. Surely some in our group would get lost there AND we would undoubtedly miss our Nile Cruise. I came to Egypt to see Egypt—NOT to shop for overpriced T-shirts for distant relatives!!!! We had agreed no perfume or papyrus factories because we did not want to waste precious time buying stuff we did not NEED. Finally, we agreed to save Khan al-Khalili Bazaars for the next day, and to head directly to our hotel. Traffic was sooooo congested, we feared we would not arrive in time to check in, shower, and make the dinner cruise on time. We had spent the day in the windy sandy dessert and were in NEED of cleansing. Unfortunately, all we had time for was to check in and leave our luggage with the concierge. There was much debate about going to our rooms or not. I was the voice of reason, insisting we should give up the notion of the Nile dinner cruise if we were to attempt visiting our room in this massive former palace hotel.

FINALLY, they agreed we should head directly to our Nile cruise ship in this fiercely congested traffic.

Our people-pleasing tour guide was not helpful in guiding the decisions of this polarized first time group to Egypt.

The Nile dinner cruise was a bountiful buffet of traditional Egyptian dishes. Entertainment was 1) belly dancer and 2) whirling dervish spinning around in his brightly colored, muti-layered, flared costume

Back to the hotel after 10PM. I explored a bit and bought few souvenirs in shop just in case there would not be sufficient time to shop at the bazaar the next day.

I was EXHAUSTED.

Here is Wikipedias description of the hotel:
The Cairo Marriott Hotel is a large hotel situated on the River Nile in the centre of Cairo, Egypt. Once a palace built on orders from the ruler of Egypt in 1869, the hotel was converted to a by Marriott International to a modern hotel. The hotel consists of 1,089 rooms, making it one of the largest hotels in the Middle East.
The rooms are located in two identical twenty-storey buildings - the Gezira and Zamelek Towers. Situated between them on ground level is the palace and main entrance to the hotel, which reconstructed now contains the reception and administration areas. On the roof of the palace is an open-air theatre which faces the Nile.

The original palace was constructed by the Nile on orders from Khedive Ismail. He asked the architects of that time to make it resemble another palace in France, Versailles, where Empress Eugénie used to stay. The purpose for that palace was to host the French Empress Eugénie who was invited along with her husband the French Emperor Napoleon. The occasion of that invitation was the opening of the Suez Canal, which was a huge project at that time.

It is over-the-top ornate but beautiful at the same time!

Day 2
Checked out of hotel and met in lobby at 7AM (I think).

First stop: The Citadel

The Citadel, home to Egypt’s rulers for almost 700 years, was our first stop. This complex contains 4 museums, mosques, and an area that offers spectacular views of the city.

The imposing Turkish style Mohammed Ali Mosque, built from 183-48, has become a symbol of Cairo. It is a grand structure with ornate domes, minarets, and entrance ways that echoes the great imperial mosques of the Ottoman Empire. It truly is a splendid site.

We toured the inside of this magnificent structure. I found the stories of its design, construction, and religious importance to be interesting.

Next Stop: The Egyptian Museum. Aside from the Giza Pyramids, this museum (and the Royal Mummies room) was my favorite stop.

I could easily have spent days here with a tour guide and time to process it all, of course. It has 107 halls densely packed with displays of more than 120,000 items.

At the ground floor there are the huge statues, coins, coffins, amulets, household items, reliefs etc from the Old, Middle, and New Kingdoms. The upper floor houses small statues, jewels, Tutankhamen treasures and the royal mummy room.

King Tut Exhibits

Commencing with two life-size statues of the young king that stood guard at the entrance to his tomb, The Tutankhamun Galleries fill the upper floors east and north wings. There are more than 1700 items on display ranging from board games and hunting implements to couches and beds, and of course, the fabulous life-sized GOLD DEATH MASK.

Only 3 in our group elected to pay the extra $20 to visit the Hall for the Royal Mummies housing eleven kings and queens. I was so impressed by how well-preserved these (more than) 3000 year-old bodies were. You can still see their teeth, nails, and hair.

More than a million and half tourists visit the museum annually, in addition to half a million Egyptians.

We agreed to not risk missing boat with a sit down lunch or with shopping in the Khan El Khalili Bazaars.

We headed directly back to ship in Alexandria. Along the way, we picked up boxed lunches of traditional Egyptian fare

It was an extremely windy day; Our van was rocking back and forth on the way back. I was so glad we had visited the dessert the day before. The blowing sand would have blinded our views.

The ride back was especially long—almost 4 hours

In Alexandria, our tour guide pointed out major structures. It was too windy to bother getting out to see them up close and personal.

As it turns out, there was a nice bazaar, with at least 25 vendors, right outside ship in Alexandria.

I was so tired carrying my duffle that I was not in the mood for bargaining or acquiring. I only bought postcards that I mailed from Malta (NCL mailed them for me)

I will definitely return to the Giza plateau and Cairo

Mediterranean Cruise Tweets!

2009-12-14T15:08:00.005-05:00

Mediterranean Cruise Tweets (Dec 8-20, 2009)

Stood on my balcony as the ship pulled out of Barcelona. Breathtaking views of the city at night. It’s magical! Tomorrow: day at sea. Next port will be Rome.

Loved feeling of being rocked 2 sleep on ship last night. Slept TEN hours. Salsa lessons; past NCL cruiser Meet & Greet parties. Rome tomorrow

2nd bag never made it to ship. Miss my groovy shoes and boots. Lucked out and bought boots and pair of shoes in Barcelona

Great weather. Sunny, not windy, not cold at all on the Mediterranean Sea!

Ship’s internet moves like a melting glacier because they use USA satellite from the Mediterranean Sea

ROME: Sistine chapel- no crowds; Coliseum grand; Spanish Steps; Trevi Fountain; Tour guide hosted us for snacks and sang 2 us at his villa

2nd piece of luggage for my stress-free cruise is missing in action-went 2 airport 3 hours early just so flights & luggage could go smoothly

Athens: hope the riots have calmed down so it’s safe for tourists

Sick in bed yesterday-sea day

My 4th time in Athens. Great Athens Day with small group. -Glad it rained AFTER Acropolis visit! I love the Plaka.

Too sick to take my tour to Ephesus today. Rested some. Went into Izmir, Turkey a bit.

Izmir,Turkey. My 1st visit 2 Muslim nation(Indonesia doesn’t count cuz I went 2 Buddhist Bali.)Turkey very secular and modern.Will join EU.

Re-reading all about history of Europe from my balcony. Smooth sailing today.

I love watching sunsets from my balcony on the Norwegian Jade. We are en route to Alexandria. 7AMarrival tomorrow.

Brazilian line dancing lesson is HIGH energy and aerobic!

Nightly shows on the ship are great: tonight was exquisite ballet flamenco

Egypt-our ship just arrived! Off to Giza to see the PYRAMIDS, Nile Cruise, & overnight at the Cairo Marriott. A dream comes true! 140 characters

The Pyramids at Giza were everything I had imagined they would be and more. Nile dinner cruise, Memphis, & crawled into a 3000 year tomb

Security tight everywhere in Cairo—metal detectors everywhere

The Egyptian Museum took my breath away.Saw King Tut collection, mummy room, and many well-preserved thousands year old artifacts.

2000 miles from Barcelona

Windstorms in Cairo are brutal with dessert so close. We heard another ship could dock in Alexandria today because winds are so strong.

Saw whirling Dervishes perform

Malta, our last stop on the cruise, is tomorrow.

All day at sea today. Saw more great shows tonight. Also, it is Lobster night.

Will arrive in picturesque Valletta, Malta soon! I will explore on my own.

Circled beautiful island of Malta in 1.5hrs. Love the walled Medina. Most Catholic place around. 320+ churches.

Sand from the Giza Plateau seeped into our lungs. We coughed til we left Egypt.

I miss high speed, unlimited use internet.

Finally tasted dinner on 3rd to last night-Lobster night. Tasted all day today (Malta Day) hopefully my taste buds are back for good!

Truly enjoyed visiting cradles of civilization & cradles of Western thought in Italy, Greece, Turkey, & Egypt.Great cruise! Barcelona in AM.

Really rough sailing our last night on the ship. I hear they cancelled 2nd show! Glad I saw it earlier.

Back in Barcelona. Flight to JFK. Hope my evening flight to Miami will go as scheduled.

Stuck in Spain. American Air put us up for the night and gave us 3 meals. Wonder where I will sleep tonight? Spain? New York? Miami? Dread heading back to the airport with all the uncertainty.

Good News: My desperation paid off!! Instead of having to transfer from Newark to La Guardia, they booked me on sold out flight Newark to MIA in FIRST Class!! I am so happy!!! Also got business class to Newark from Barcelona!!

Turkey-My First Visit to a Muslim Nation Today!

2009-12-14T07:45:00.003-05:00

Izmir, Turkey

Today, for the 1st time, I visited Turkey, an ambivalent nation torn between East and West, between past and present, secular and conservative religious. Once one of the most powerful empires in the Western World (spanning Southern and Eastern Europe, Asia, and North and East Africa), Turkey was reduced to a small country for fighting with Germany after WWI. Today 70% of Turkish citizens wish to join the EU. They have appealed several times for membership, which would make it the 1st Muslim EU nation.

I awoke feeling queezy and felt it unwise to take my planned group tour to Ephesus. After remaining on board ship to rest awhile, I decided to venture into Turkey by myself. Surely I had not come all this way to miss a visit to Turkey—sick or well!

I must admit I had mixed emotions about exploring a Muslim nation as a woman, alone. I was quickly reminded of how secular this Sunni Muslim county is as a strolled through cosmopolitan Izmir.

I took a taxi to Konak where I roamed through the bazaar. My impression was: male-dominated but the young woman were hip and progressive. The shops were trendy, reminded me of similar commercial districts in European cities. I heard Alicia Keyes and Michael Jackson blaring from the shops.

Next, I sat in the pigeon-filled, park of the clock tower. I watched the passers-by. From Dads with sons, to flocks of school girls, to older men drinking (and some were pouring) coffee, to head-covered, body-covered older women, to gypsies begging. I felt like a fly on the wall and a part of at the same time. I bet only my photo-taking suggested I was not from there.

The Turksh flag is prominently displayed everywhere.

At prayer time, a voice called worshippers to prayer from the minaret.

As with most places I visit outside the US, here too, I saw Mc Donald’s, Burger King, KFC, and Starbucks.

I felt this countries identity crises as I sat in the park. I could see clearly how its personae is divided between east and west, past and present, secular and religious. I look forward to my next visit to the Muslim world In two days, we will arrive in Egypt.

Update: A tornado killed people in Turkey and specifically in Izmir 6 days after I was there.

Here is an article written by a journalist with limited written English-language skills:

December 19 Tornado fear

Harsh wind turned into a tornado in the city of Izmir. Tornado threw away the security cottage of a settlement unit. It crashed to Mustafa Kose who is a shepherd and was working around the environment in which the bad event occurred.

Kose died and the security guard injured.

The Asian Sea overflowed in Izmir becaused of the tornado and the heavy rain and blocked routes between villages.

An estimated 600 residents of the village expressed their fear while two minute that tornado continued.

Athens Today From Cruise Ship

2009-12-12T15:26:00.002-05:00

Athens

Today from our cruise ship, we visited Athens, the cradle of Western civilization and thought and birthplace of democracy, individual rights, and freedom of speech. The USA’s founding fathers were so enamored with the ideals and philosophies of Ancient Greece that they entertained making Greek the USA’s official language. European luminaries had even joined in the Greek War of Independence to help preserve the ideals of Ancient Greece.

One of my favorite things to do in Athens (my 4th visit here) is to tour the most potent symbol of the Greek Golden Age: The Acropolis. The Parthenon has inspired architects from around the world for more than 2500 years. It took 9 years to build this temple to Athena. (its too bad Turkish explosives bombed the structure in 1687). I love that the Parthenon so dominates the soul of the city, you can see it morning, noon, and night from throughout the city. We were fortunate that the rain held off til AFTER our Acropolis visit!

A stop at the Temple of Zeus was next. From there, we could see the landmark Parthenon perfectly.

Our tour guide, Peter, That Greece joined the EU in 1981. Their switch from the drachma to the Euro 8 years ago has had negative impact on their economy.

The 2004 Olympics were held in Greece for the 1st time since the modern Olympics were revived in 1896. Preparation for hosting the 2004 Olympics catapulted Greece into the 21st century bringing impressive new stadiums, an expanded subway system (today transports a million Greeks daily), a new airport, and tram lines. Of note, Greece completed construction the DAY before the Olympics.

The garbage strike that made internationals news was visible (everywhere. Our guide apologized.

Another of my favorite activities in Europe is to walk around the Plaka. The guide dropped us off at Thisio and I strolled through the cobblestone streets visiting shops for a couple of hours. Last on our itenerary was a visit to the newest (built June 2009) (and controversial) museum: The New Acropolis Museum.--A brand new modern structure designed to showcase Acropolis gems with a panoramic backdrop of the Acropolis. During our visit to this impressive museum, we witnessed the lighting of the Parthenon at sundown. It was stunning!

I will always look forward to visits to Athens, Greece!

Rome Today From Cruise

2009-12-12T15:25:00.002-05:00

Rome-All Roads Lead to Rome

Today we visited Rome, the Eternal City,--It’s most enduring legacy are it’s stone roads that connected much of the European continent. . It is also known for other achievements as central heating, aqueducts, public baths, and urban planning.

This was my 3rd visit to Rome.

Before we began our tour, the company owner , Remo (DriverInRome.com), invited us to his lovely, modern hillside vista. His lovely wife prepared traditional Christmas cake and coffee and he serenaded us with his squeezebox (harmonium) and told jokes. Luca was our driver and guide for the day.

On our 8-hour tour from the ship, we squeezed in the following visits:

Coliseum—ALWAYS impressive!

Trevi Fountain---tossed in 3 coins “so I will return”

Spanish Steps---majestic

Sistine Chapel---long walks thru countless rooms decorated rich in medieval art

St Paul’s Basilica---takes your breath away

Since the airline lost some of my luggage, Instead of lunch, I ran in and out of shops and found 2 pair of shoes-1) walking and 2)dressier ones. Looking in shop windows, I was reminded of how fashionable Italians are!

Because there were demonstrations throughout the city, traffic was snarled a bit.

We made it back to the ship in time.

Sent 90% of My Elder Care Book to My Editor

2009-12-07T13:50:00.001-05:00

I am thrilled I completed and sent 90% of my elder care book to my editor!-just before leaving for my 2-week, 6-country Mediterranean Cruise.

I look forward to reviewing her comments when I return.

BTW, I am at JFK, awaiting my flight to Barcelona-now.

Cairo and Giza Tour-December 15 and 16

2009-11-28T09:16:00.012-05:00

2 days trip to Cairo and Giza from Alexandria Port
December 15th & 16th 2009
Private air-conditioned vehicle only for you and your party
Private guide at your own

Tour itinerary:
Day 1) Tuesday Dec.15: Alexandria / Giza tour
As soon as the cruise dock, Memphis Tours representative and your private guide will pick you up from Alexandria Port (7AM) by the cruise exit door and then drive via air-conditioned vehicle to Cairo (230 KM, around 3 hours)
Pay a visit to the Pyramids of Cheops, Chephren and Mykerinus. Then proceed to visit the Great Sphinx, the head of a pharaoh with a lion's body, which dates back to the time of Chephren; the tour also includes a visit to the Valley Temple, which belongs to the Pyramid of Chephren.
Lunch is included through out the tour and will be served at local restaurant with oriental food at Giza area
After that move to visit the Step Pyramids of Zoser at Sakkara, the world's oldest major stone structure. It was built in the 3rd Dynasty (around 2630 BC) for King Djoser.
Proceed to Memphis, which was the great city of the Old Kingdom and Royal Necropolis for the ancient Egyptians at the early history. See the Colossi statue on Ramses II and ruins of Hathor Temple.
Shopping tour through Giza famous bazaars and Papyrus institutes.
Transfer to Marriott hotel for check into your rooms.
Optional dinner cruise with belly dance show on the Nile while sailing on board 5 stars floating restaurant.

Overnight in Cairo.

Day 2) Wednesday Dec.16: Cairo tour / Back to Alexandria Morning pick up from Marriott hotel and then accompanied by your private guide for an excursion to the Egyptian Museum which features artifacts from the Pharaonic period. The museum displays a rare collection of 5000 years of art which are considered the largest most precious collection of Egyptian artifacts in the world. Over 250,000 genuine artifacts are presented, including an exhibit dedicated to Tutankhamen collection of treasures, gold and jewellery which were enclosed in his tomb for over 3,500 years before its discovery in the 1920s when his tomb was excavated.
Lunch at Hard Rock international restaurant inside Grand Hyatt hotel Cairo.
Then proceed to Salah El Din Citadel, Alabaster mosque of Mohamed Ali which was designed by the architect Yousif Boushnaq, a Turkish man who came especially from Istanbul to build this great mosque for Mohamed Ali, the ruler of Egypt (1805-1849) who ruled Egypt over 45 years.

Shopping tour at the world famous Khan El Khalili Bazaars, one of the most famous and oldest bazaars in the Middle East.
After that travel via air-conditioned modern vehicle to your cruise in Alexandria Port.

Tour inclusions:
Pick up services from Alexandria Port & return (by the cruise exit door)
All transfers by a private air-conditioned vehicle
Assistance of our personals through out tours (if senior citizens)
Private English Egyptologist guide through out the 2 days
Entrance fees to all the mentioned sites in Cairo & Giza
Mineral water on board the vehicle during the tour
Lunch meal in a local restaurant on the first day
Lunch meal at Hard Rock Cafe inside Grand Hyatt Hotel in Cairo in the second day
Shopping tours in Cairo
All service charges & taxes

Technology is Connecting Me With Fellow Future Cruisers

2009-10-27T22:29:00.014-05:00

As I plan for my Mediterranean cruise in December, I am connecting with other cruisers.

CruiseCritic.com--there a large number of cruisers are meeting and even arrangging to take group tours/shoer excursions together. We discuss everything from what to pack, to which excursions to take, to which side of the ship is best............ I even booked two great tours--for much less than the cruise line rates.

Face Book Group--A fellow cruiser formed a group on Facebook. There are almost 30 members--41 days out. Update: 35 days out, there are 60 members. Update: 27 days out-there are 70 members

FB-Email--Some of us have friended one another and are conversing privating on FB and via e-mail.

This will make solo travel much easier

12-Day Mediterranean Cruise Soon!

2009-09-29T20:37:00.010-05:00

In 70 days, I will cruise from Europe (Barcelona) to six countries in the eastern Mediterranean.

Spain (Barcelona)
Italy (port near Rome)
Greece (port near Athens)
Turkey (Izmir)
Egypt (OVERNIGHT in Alexandria)
Malta (Valletta)

I am so excited. I have a midship balcony room.
I will travel on NCL which is informal with no structured meal times and no formal dinner nights!

First Day of European Cruise on Queen Mary 2

2009-07-29T09:04:00.000-05:00

coming soon

Bilbao, Spain for Karla's Birthday

2009-07-23T19:00:00.006-05:00

I spent a glorious birthday in Spain with Jay, Natalia, Frieda, Alexander, Aiden, and Natalia’s family. We visited them in Sondika and Derio. We had lunch in a scrumptious seafood restaurant in a nearby picturesque seaside village.

After lunch, we visited the stunning Vizcaya Bridge and Puente Colgante, a UNESCO world heritage site and the oldest transport bridge in the world and took the elevator ride up for a precarious crossing to the other side on the suspended footpath, Puente Colgante (constructed in 1999). From there we saw incredible panoramic views of the right bank, and the left one with the port Bilbao and the Abra Bay in the distance, also-the yachting marinas and the beaches We enjoyed some of the annual Summer Festival on the village on the other side before taking the ferry back.

Next we took a nice long drive along the scenic coast which is dotted with seaside towns in the midst of rolling green hillsides. We strolled through the largest beachside town of Plentzia and then visited the Castle Butron.

As we drove back to Bilbao, the sun set slowly to accompany us back to our hotel.

Ballroom Dancing on the Queen Mary When You Didn't Bring Your Guy

2009-07-23T18:53:00.004-05:00

I went to the ball room for dancing last night. They hire older gentlemen to dance with the ladies. They are very respectful. I danced the Rumba, Fox Trot, Waltz, Quick Step, Cha Cha and Samba with 5 of them. I feel very comfortable with the whole idea now. I will dance at the Captain’s ball tonight!

Lisbon (Lisboa) from the Queen Mary

2009-07-15T13:54:00.006-05:00

Entering Lisbon from the sea brings spectacular views and perspectives of this picturesque city. From my stateroom balcony, I saw hillside neighborhoods, castles, cathedrals, and monuments galore. I even saw Christ the Redeemer Statue (a la Corcovado in RIO). Lisboa is the capital city and largest city in Portugal and is built on 7 hills. It is rich in architecture with Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Modern construction found all over the city.

One of the only Portuguese words I remember is obrigada (thank you) so I said it often in town today.

The sail away party was especially nice because of the majestic views from deck.

I will wait till I return home to post more photos. Upload time is very slow at sea.

Cherbourg, Normandie-France Reflections

2009-07-15T03:09:00.005-05:00

I can’t believe this was my first visit to France since 1995. I felt moved (a bit to tears) as I was strolling about town. So many memories of life in France came rushing back. I even had a burning desire to buy a pack of cigarettes. I was craving a smoke!!! I discovered they no longer make des Gauloises Vertes Filtres which I used to smoke by the carton.

This was my first time using Euros. I miss the Franc. I suppose there’s a whole new generation that doesn’t know the Franc or Deutschmark or Peseta or Lira etc. I received 38 Euros back from $60US.

Cherbourg is the second largest city in Normandie; a major port city since it was invaded by the Vikings; and scene of the Battle of Cherbourg following the Normandie Invasion. Visits to the D-day cemeteries, the Bayeux tapestry (depicting the victory at the Battle of Hastings), and Mt Saint Michel, the stunning gothic monastery are nearby.

La Normandie is known for its Camembert, Cidre, tripes (A La Mode de Caen), and Calvados, a fiery, high alcohol apple brandy. In the past, every Normand household distilled their own brand of Calvados. When I lived here at L’Universite de Caen, we used to take Le Trou Normand, which is drinking a shot of chilled Calva while singing a famous song. This is done mid-meal to revitalize the appetite (a la sorbet)

Cherbourg has been restored since WWII, just like Caen, the city where I lived, since it was damaged in WWII.

Cherbourg was the first and last stop on Titanic’s maiden and only voyage.

300 passengers joined us on the Queen Mary in Cherbourg.

Until I return…………………………

How To Avoid Jet Lag

2009-07-13T10:28:00.000-05:00

Take a transatlantic crossing on the Queen Mary 2.

Eastboud, each morning, you set your clocks forward by one hour.

Westbound, each morning, you get to sleep an hour later by rewinding your clocks.

PRESTO! No JET LAG!!!

Traveling Solo on a Cruise-My First

2009-07-13T10:19:00.002-05:00

Traveling Solo Unexpectedly on the Queen Mary 2(written Saturday, July 11, 2009)

Tragedy struck. Bobbie suffered a mild stroke and was hospitalized on the ship during most of the cruise. The cruise line will not permit her to remain on the ship for the second cruise. Freida will accompany her. Both cancelled their European cruise.
I will continue on with our original plans of a second cruise thru France, Portugal, and Spain. I will spend 3 days in Bilbao Spain with Jay. I will celebrate my birthday there.

I had no plans to travel solo on the Queen Mary thru Europe. Since I have travelled the world solo, I suppose I am prepared to make new friends on the ship.

I have considered cruising solo but not like this!!!

Queen Mary Day 1

2009-07-08T11:08:00.000-05:00

We had a fantastic 1st day on board the Queen Mary. The journey began with a spectacular sail away party complete with lively calypso band, cool beverages served by white-gloved waiters, and merry meeting and greeting of fellow travelers. We learned that many of them had sailed from England the previous week.

Leaving New York was made even more memorable because of the stunning views of New York’s spectacular skyline that waved good bye to us.

Our first day was activity packed offering choices for everyone from bookworms, to fitness buffs, to gourmands, to music lovers, to those who enjoy being pampered in the spa. I began my day with a guided tour of the ship, listened to a lecture about Hollywood moguls, took a cha-cha dance class, and saw a fascinating show in the only planetarium on a cruise ship. For lunch, we had 10 choices of restaurants. Next, I went shopping on board for Harrods and QM2 logo items and browsed the extensive bookstore.
We ended the day with a lavish formal black and white ball, captain’s welcome reception, and surf and turf for dinner. We are dining with a couple from England, a couple from Missouri, and a woman from England. Of note, more than half the passengers are British, about one third are from the US, and the rest mainly hail from Northern Europe.

Tonight’s entertainment was a performance by the QM dancers and a world famous violinist.

I look forward to what unfolds next!!

Queen Mary 2 Feautures--I Leave Today at 5PM

2009-07-05T21:03:00.006-05:00

Queen Mary 2 Canyon Ranch SpaClub®It is not surprising that one of the most luxurious ocean vessels ever built features a Canyon Ranch spa. This highly acclaimed health resort company has elevated the spa experience to an entirely new plane with life-changing programs from stress-relief classes to workshops on diet, healthy aging and disease prevention. Fifty-one Canyon Ranch health and wellness experts work in QM2's 20,000 square foot facility which includes 24 treatment rooms, a thalassotherapy pool with deluge waterfall, a whirlpool, thermal suite with both herbal and Finnish saunas, reflexology basins and an aromatic steam room.

QM2 Planetarium - Illuminations
Take a virtual ride into outer space, view the stars and other visual spectacles or take a course on celestial navigation in Illuminations, QM2's full-scale planetarium. It also functions as a grand cinema, a 500-seat lecture hall and even a broadcasting studio.

Queen Mary 2 - Cunard ConneXions
SM QM2's cultural enrichment program includes seven classrooms and a 500-seat auditorium where you can attend workshops, seminars and lectures presenting a fusion of perspectives from the world's premier cultural hotspots: New York and London. Classes range from fashion to foreign languages, watercolor techniques to period furniture. Try film making. Join a discussion of British comedy, or compare MoMA and the Tate.

QM 2 Culinary Advisor Daniel Boulud
Stunning French-American cuisine and dedication to quality have made Cunard's culinary advisor one of the most famous chefs in the world. He has been the recipient of numerous awards from Bon Appetit's "Chef of the Year" to Gourmet's "Top Tables." People often wait months for a reservation at Daniel, his famous New York City bistro, ranked Number One for "Top Food" by the 2002 Zagat Survey. Guests can enjoy his cuisine aboard QM2.

QM2 History & Art
Renowned international artists were commissioned to produce over 300 original works of art valued at over $5 million. For history buffs, the museum-quality Maritime Quest exhibit is a fascinating tour that takes you back to the golden era of transatlantic cruising.
Queen Mary 2 - Personal Butler and Concierge Service
Concierges attend to guests in all of the Grill Accommodations, while the Queens Grill categories also feature private butler service.

QM2 Interactive TV
You can receive or send e-mails, choose from dozens of movies, review a seminar you might have missed or sign up for shore excursions - right from the comfort of your stateroom.

Internet on the QM2
Guests can surf the web, check e-mail or even transmit a video postcard to friends and family back home. They can take classes in the Computer Centre, or bring their own laptop; every stateroom has direct Internet access.

QM2 Play Zone/The Zone
QM2 was designed to accommodate all the ages. For guests who wish to take their children or grandchildren along, The Play Zone is like a well-run camp for children 2 - 7 years old. A separate facility, The Zone, provides hours of supervised entertainment and activities for children 8- 12 years old. The area includes the Minnows splash pool and real English nannies for the toddlers. And it's equipped with an array of toys and activities from board games to computer terminals with all kinds of learning adventures, so that while kids are doing their thing, adults have some quality time alone.

Dining
Dining has always been a memorable event on any Cunard voyage, a celebration where culinary creations are served by waiters trained in the fine art of Cunard service. Lavish dining is one of the centerpieces of the QM2 experience, as well - with vastly expanded menus and venues.
There are 10 restaurants in all, a team of chefs that includes culinary advisor Daniel Boulud, one of the world's most famous chefs, and the celebrated Mediterranean and TV culinary luminary Todd English. As with the custom of ocean liners in the past, each QM2 stateroom is matched with a reserved table at a sea-view restaurant, complemented by the largest wine selection afloat. Of course, you can always make reservations at one of the many optional dining alternatives. Or don't dine out - dine in! Room service is available 24 hours a day.
Source: Cunard Line

Overview of the Queen Mary 2 (QM2)-We embark tomorrow

2009-07-05T08:40:00.006-05:00

With a passenger capacity of 2,620, QM2's size allows a great variety of passenger amenities. Almost everything you could want on a cruise ship can be found on the QM2. For those who want to be pampered and rejuvenated, the ship features the Canyon Ranch SpaClub®. Athletes can play basketball or virtual reality golf, and a state-of-the-art gym includes a separate weight room. The Cunard ConneXionsSM is almost like a college at sea, taking into account, of course, that you're on vacation. The QM2 even has some features new to cruising such as a planetarium and a look at marine history in the Maritime Quest Exhibit. QM2 even lets you bring your dog along and board him in an onboard kennel.

Nighttime on the QM2 is elegant, and the ship plays host to formal gatherings in the evenings. After dinner entertainment includes dancing in the largest ballroom at sea, jazz in the Commodore Club, a casino, caberet singing in the Chart Room, and West End-caliber shows in the Royal Court Theatre.

Some of the traditional Cunard hallmarks are found throughout the Queen Mary 2 -- sweeping staircases, soaring public rooms, a grand ballroom, and a 360° promenade deck. A space ratio of 57.25 makes her one of the roomiest vessels anywhere, and the ship has 14 decks of sports facilities, shops, bars, lounges, 5 pools and no fewer than 10 restaurants. With one staff member per couple, a very high level of service can be expected. For those who love verandas as I do, three-quarters of the QM2 staterooms have balconies. Some of the lavish two-story duplexes even have their own private exercise equipment.

Since it is often difficult to picture the size of such a large vessel, here are some comparisons:
• QM2 is five times longer than Cunard's first ship, Britannia (230 ft.)
• QM2 is 113 feet longer than the original Queen Mary
• QM2 is more than twice as long as the Washington Monument is tall (550 ft.)
• QM2 is 147 feet longer than the Eiffel Tower is tall (984 ft.)
• QM2 is more than 3 ½ times as long as Westminster Tower (Big Ben) is high (310 ft.)
• QM2 is only 117 feet shorter than the Empire State Building is tall (1248 ft.)
• QM2 is more than three times as long as St. Paul's Cathedral is tall (366 ft.)
• QM2 is as long as 41 double-decker London buses (31 ½ ft. each)
• QM2's whistle is audible for 10 miles

Will Visit Guggenheim in Bilbao Next Month (July 2009)

2009-06-04T09:48:00.005-05:00

I will visit my brother in Bilbao, July 17-20.

A highlight will be a trip to the Guggenheim. We will stay nearby at the Sheraton, Bilbao.

Here is a brief description from the museum's website:

Instantly hailed as the most important structure of its time, Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum Bilbao recently celebrated a decade of extraordinary success on October 19, 2007. With close to ninety exhibitions and over ten million visitors to its credit, the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao forever changed the way the world thinks about museums, and it continues to challenge our assumptions about the connections between art, architecture, and collecting.

Queen Mary 2-July 6-20, 2009

2009-05-12T09:04:00.002-05:00

Queen Mary 2 Description:
With sweeping staircases, domed public rooms, full-circle promenade deck and elegant appointments, Cunard's Queen Mary 2 melds the classic grace of yesteryear's ocean liners and the ultimate in modern features. Accommodations range from standard cabins to expansive, lavish suites with private elevator access. Three-quarters of all staterooms have balconies. Dining is first-rate onboard QM2, as seven galleys service 10 restaurants, including the renowned Todd English restaurant, which overlooks the pool terrace. Kings Court offers a variety of dining alternatives in the evening. A string quartet plays in the elegant Winter Garden as afternoon tea is served with white-glove service. The 20,000-square-foot Canyon Ranch SpaClub offers stress-relief treatments and wellness classes.

There is a stunning array of recreation, with unique venues such as Illuminations, a planetarium that serves as a lecture hall and cinema. Queens Room houses an elegant ballroom. Fourteen bars include Golden Lion Pub and G32, a disco. Decks 12 and 13 offer sporty fun: a putting green, shuffleboard, deck games, a giant chess board, two golf simulators, basketball and table tennis. Enjoy a performance at Royal Court Theatre or gaming in the Empire Casino. Throughout the cruise, Cunard Connexions offers enriching and educational workshops and seminars.

Queen Mary 2 This Summer!

2009-05-12T08:56:00.005-05:00

I will take two (back-to-back) cruises on the Queen Mary 2, the most elegant oceanliner of all, this summer.

1) 6-night transatlantic crossing that departs New York on July 6 and arrives Southampton, England on July 12. I will be in balcony stateroom 4038.

We will remain on the ship for:

2) 8-night, roundtrip from Southampton that departs July 12. I will be in balcony stateroom 6081.

It will make stops in Cherbourg, France, Lisbon, Portugal, Vigo, Spain, Bilbao, Spain, LaRochelle and Brest in France. We will disembark day #5 (July 17) in Bilbao to visit my brother, his wife, and 2 sons. They live in Bilbao. We will spend July 17-20 at the Sheraton Bilbao.

On July 20, I will return to Miami (from Bilbao) via Madrid on American Airlines.

I am so excited!

Cunard.com

Last Minute Bahamas Cruise

2009-01-30T12:33:00.003-05:00

Two days ago, I booked a weekend cruise departing from the port of Miami. I will head to the Carnival ship in a few minutes. I have never booked a vacation on such short notice. This was definitely a test of my flexibility!

Another Great Seattle Trip!

2008-10-26T20:42:00.004-05:00

October 2008

Egypt-My Dream Trip!

2008-09-04T09:39:00.003-05:00

For more than twenty years, I have wanted to see the Giza Pyramids and cruise the Nile. I have decided to finally take my dream trip next February.

Playing Tourist in New York City

2008-07-23T09:55:00.004-05:00

Freida and I decided to play tourist for four gloriously sunny days in New York, her favorite city and my second favorite city in the world (behind Paris). We celebrated my birthday there last week. We stayed at the apartment of her out-of-town friend who lives in the Village on West 13th St. Of note, her balcony, kitchen, and bedroom have views of the Empire State Building.

We enjoyed New York and all its splendor without the distractions of television, the internet, or cell phones. Daily, we moved around from early morning till past midnight visiting a broad swath of The Big Apple from Brooklyn, to Harlem, to Ground Zero, to Mid Town, to the South Street Seaport, to the Upper East Side.

In all, we experienced the following:

§ Two guided tours at museums
--The Met-we took Highlights Tour from a New Jersey judge, who volunteers as a docent on weekends. At tour end, we went up to the rooftop garden that has magnificent city views and gargantuan, whimsical Jeff Koons sculptures.
--The Studio Museum in Harlem-Target is sponsoring free Sundays and featured a kickoff party today. The director conducted the guided tour of current exhibits. There was also music, food, and tote bag decorating etc.

§ Two Plays/Musicals
--Passing Strange—brilliant! One of the most unique plays we had ever seen. It was the final weekend, and Spike Lee filmed it twice
--The Altar Boys--- entertaining and upbeat!

§ Three bus tours from atop the double-decker buses. We purchased 48 hour passes on the double-decker sightseeing buses. These buses run all day long. Each tour guide brought a different style and personality
--Night Tour NYC is stunning at night!
--Downtown (we took this twice)
--Brooklyn
We learned a lot on each tour where we saw Chinatown, Little Italy, the Bowery, Mid-Town, the Empire State building, the Chrysler building, Rockefeller Center, St. Paul's Cathedral, the flatiron building, Greenwich Village, SOHO, NOHO, and Brooklyn Heights. We also learned about DUMBO (down under the Manhattan Bridge overpass), one of the newest trendy as upscale sections of Brooklyn; and RAMBO (right after the Manhattan Bridge overpass)

§ Circle Line Cruise of the harbor-- We saw the new waterfalls exhibits and of course, breathtaking skyline views, and the Piece de resistance: the Statue of Liberty, up close and personal!!!!!!!!!!!! I just love her!

§ Outside Ballet at South Street Seaport
Dance 360°

§ Contortionist act

§ Long walks
---The Village.
---Midtown
---Times Square-- we strolled the newly transformed Times Square every night. I still marvel at how they replaced the former seedy Times Square area with what looks like a combination of a suburban mall and Las Vegas. The sights, sounds, signs, and crowds were an exhilarating and a feast for the eyes.
---Ground Zero.—sobering. St Paul's Chappel s a must-see
---South Street Seaport

§ Shopping.

§ Japanese, Thai, French, and Café meals.

§ St. Paul's Chapel at Ground Zero-- very, very moving tour

§ Lots of intimate conversation

We took public transportation the entire time.

There are still many other items on the itinerary that we will save for our next visit, including walking across the Brooklyn Bridge, the Transit Museum, Chelsea galleries and much, much more…………………………

Here are 140 photos: http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=238212407/a=78382827_78382827/t_=78382827

New York City for my Birthday

2008-07-20T15:02:00.001-05:00

I came to spend the 21st Anniversary of meeting my birth mom, here in NYC, where we first met. We are staying at Ruth's apartment, just as we did 21 years ago.

So far, we have gone from the Village to Harlem, seen two plays, dined in Thai and Japanese restaurants, toured the Met and the Studio Museum, and shared fond memories over coffee!

I cannot believe how they have transformed Times Square!

More details later.

I will take a 5-country Panama Canal Cruise

2008-06-30T08:32:00.005-05:00

I am really excited to take a Panama Canal Cruise in November

Importantly:

It will visit five countries: Columbia, Panama, Costa Rica, Aruba and Ecuador and 7 ports of call including the San Blas Islands.
It leaves from Ft Lauderdale--NO AIRPORTS outbound-just a 30-minute drive to depart
It stays in this hemisphere-NO JET LAG
I got the price with NO SINGLE SUPPLEMENT-$2095 (+fess) for 12 days on Royal Princess (importantly, this fare is no longer available-the price for one would be double now)
I can pack ONCE; unpack ONCE!
I have an unobstructed view window stateroom
I will transit the Panama Canal
I will visit the San Blas Islands (I tried this in vain before)
I got a refundable one-way, non-stop, return ticket from Guayaquil for $540
I confirmed second seating for dinner

India 2007 Photos (link)

2007-10-28T15:40:00.000-05:00

Here are some of my India 2007 photos:

http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=184808215/a=78382827/t_=78382827

Enjoy!

Final Day In India Sikh Temple, Bahai Temple, Farewell Dinner

2007-09-30T09:34:00.002-05:00

Final Day in India Sikh Temple, Baha'i Temple, Farewell Dinner
Letter #8 India

Dear Friends and Family,

Here is how we spent our last splendid day in India.

Back To Birla House--Mahatma's Gandhi Museum.
A few of us decided we wanted to spend more time touring that wonderful memorial honoring Gandhi. I especially wanted to visit the bookstore to purchase some of his works and I wanted to explore more of the exhibits I missed on my previous visit. I cannot get enough of Gandhi!
Next, we said goodbye to our luxury hotel, the Taj Mahal, one of Delhi's finest. I will certainly miss waking up to a sumptuous breakfast buffet with a variety of menu items, with attentive service!

Sikh Temple

Our first stop was to a Sikh temple. Before entering the temple, we were required to remove both shoes and socks and to cover our heads. They gave us all orange bandannas to cover our heads.

As usual, we encountered a beautiful mosaic of colorful people at this phenomenal temple. We were there on Sunday, one of the most popular days for a visit, and it is also a popular family gathering. People from all faiths are welcome to enter the Sikh temple and worship the Sikh Holy Scripture. Every person, irrespective of caste, creed, gender, culture or nationality is welcome here. Sikhism is also known for its community kitchen. It is designed to provide food to all devotees, pilgrims, and visitors and is a symbol of equality, fraternity, and brotherhood. People of all walks of life share the same food sitting together in one row. The community kitchen is staffed entirely by volunteers, who prepare and serve the food. It was so beautiful to witness this bustling activity.

So what is Sikhism?

It is a branch of Hinduism, and one of the world's newer religions. that was founded in 1469 in northern India. It is strictly monotheistic believing in one supreme God. The religion consists of practical living, in rendering service to humanity and engendering tolerance and brotherly love toward all. They believe in are earning an honest living in leading a normal life Sikhism does not accept the idea of pessimism. It advocates optimism and hope.

The five symbols of Sikhism are as follows:
1. uncut hair and an untrimmed beard hair covered by a turban 2.a sword 3. a comb, 4. a steel bracelet 5. and undergarment.

All Sikhs (men) can be identified by these five symbols with them at all times.

The temple was spectacular, with gold domes and a large iridescent blue wading pool surrounded by worshipers.

Again, we formed a prayer circle and Father Leo led us in prayer, amidst a river of onlookers. It was a beautiful experience.

Baha’i House of Worship
Our final stop represented a culmination of all we had experienced about India's religions.

The Baha'i Faith is an independent world religion, divine in origin, all embracing and scope that celebrates all the world's religions. It upholds the unity of God, the unity of religions, and the unity of the entire human race. It was established in 1844 in Iran by a young Persian man named Bab. He was persecuted and martyred in 1850. Over subsequent years, many of his followers were also persecuted. His predecessor was imprisoned, which is where he revealed thousands of inspired writings. The Scriptures are unique, because for the first time the holy writings of a major religion are authentically available in the handwriting of its founder.
The Baha’i world community comprises more than 2112 different ethnic groups in over 360 countries and territories and islands, representing a true cross-section of the human race.

BAHA’I Principles:
§ The oneness of mankind
§ Independent investigation of truth
§ The common foundation of all religions
§ The essential harmony of science and religion
§ Equality of men and women
§ Elimination of prejudice of all kinds
§ Universal compulsory education
§ Universal peace
I am ready to convert!

After listening to a helpful lecture and overview of the religion and construction of the lotus temple, we gave a tearful goodbye to Anita, our wonderful tour guide. We've learned she is a history professor. It is no wonder she is so stellar!
We were then blessed with the opportunity to participate in the three a clock prayer service. During the service, we listened to readings and songs from Hebrew text, the Christian Bible, the Koran, Buddhist scriptures, and Hindu texts.

Imagine a world where all religions honor one another!

The truth is: all religions are the same; all religions honor the same God. Only politics divide us.

Baha’i temples worldwide
There are seven Baha'i temples, one on each continent.
The Baha'i house of worship in India is the newest. It opened in 1986 dedicated to the unity of God, the unity of religion, and the unity of mankind.
The common characteristics of Baha'i houses of worship is that they are all nine sided. Nine is the highest digit and symbolizes comprehensiveness, oneness, and unity. The symbol chosen for India's Baha'i temple is the Lotus. The Lotus represents equality of genders, and that beauty can come from darkness. Bahaindia.org.

What an exquisite organization and a perfect culmination of our exploration of India's religions!

Farewell dinner at our travel agents, beautiful home.

Shama, our tour guide, (Rama Tours) welcomed us to her beautiful upper middle class home, (near Delhi) which is a converted, 4-story bed-and-breakfast, for a farewell celebration and dinner.

Father Leo engaged our group of 50 in a closing ceremony where each of us shared our impressions of our journey. We have a wonderful final Indian meal, catered by a helpful staff.
Her home is a four-story bed-and-breakfast with large balconies decorated with elephants, camels, Hindus statues and other lovely decorative artifacts.
Finally, we were whisked off to the airport, where we had a smooth transition to our flight home.
What an extraordinary experience I had in India! It forced us all to get introspective and to learn more about who we are. We experienced extreme highs and lows, some darkness and light, abundance and scarcity, and lots of support.

You may want to know would I go back to this magical land full of such contrasts?

In a heartbeat!

Thank you for coming along. I posted 606 photos to snapfish at http://www2.snapfish.com/photolibrary/owned_view=owned_2007/t_=78382827. Actually, I will forward the link.

Namaste!
Karla in India.

Gandhi Museum, Bahai Temple, Sikh Temple, Hindu Temple and Farewell Dinner

2007-09-29T22:53:00.003-05:00

Letter # 7

Hello Friends and Family

Gandhi Museum, Bahai Temple, Sikh Temple, Hindu Temple and Farewell Dinner

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Yesterday, we visited Birla House, where Gandhi spent his last 144 days and where this man of peace was assassinated by one of his own Hindustani fanatics.

It was a very moving experience.

There was a comprehensive chronicling of his life and works in photographs, quotes, dioramas, and multi-media interactive exhibits.
The Museum has a very rich collection of relics, books, journals and documents, photographs, audio-visual materials, exhibitions, art pieces and other memorabilia closely connected with Mahatma Gandhi.

Outside there was an exhibit of his footsteps that led to the place he was assasinated that fateful day.

Some of us returned this morning.

Next we visited a Hindu Temple. Ohm means God is omnipotent and omnipresent.

Today, we will visit the Lotus Blossom Bahai Temple and a Sikh temple before our farewell dinner at Shama's house.

Our flight home will be after midnight tonight.

Namaste!

Karla in India

Rishikesh, Swami Chidanand, Ganges River, Haridwar

2007-09-28T13:01:00.001-05:00

Letter #6
Rishikesh, Swami Chidanand, Ganges River, Haridwar

Hi Friends and Family

Travel Day

Wednesday was a long, exhausting travel day. We left our hotel in Agra at 730AM to travel via motor coach back to Delhi. From Delhi, we took a 3:30 train to Haridwar. We had enlightening conversations with Indian people.

Upon arrival in Haridwar, one of India’s most sacred cities, our senses were overwhelmed by the presence of thousands of pilgrims and devotees in their colorful turbans and saris. They lined the platform and back rooms where they either waited for their train home or were planning to spend the night.

We walked thru the streets at night to move to out to our motor coaches which were already carrying our luggage. It was a bit scary because the power went off twice, forcing us to walk in pitch darkness. Power shutting down periodically is common in India.

We took a 1.5 hour ride to Rishikesh.

Hotel From Hell (will describe in detail later)

We were shocked upon arrival at our hotel to discover our buses could not descend the steep hill to give us access to the hotel because it was situated on the side of a hill. Only a rugged, twisted path connected us to the hotel. We had to leave our buses and take ten jeeps (of five people) to tackle a treacherous, steep, drive down cliffs, IN THE RAIN, and it was pitch black! I was really terrified because the roads were winding and slippery and we almost overshot a turn. (we would have flown into the mighty Ganges). Then, we had to wait for them to unload al our luggage into jeeps.

We had traveled FIFTEEN hours from Agra.

Fr Leo reminded us how excited he was we would soon be at our 5-star resort and spa overlooking the Ganges.

He was wrong!

Our rooms were so bad I thought we were on candid camera. This was more like a one-star hotel. The rooms were rustic, dirty, devoid of what we needed (towels, drinking water, hot water etc), and the shower consisted of a slab of concrete with a shower head in the ceiling near a smelly toilet.

I had to climb 4 stories of steep winding steps in the pouring rain. My luggage did not arrive in my room till 115AM.

We were all devastated by the site of this dump!

It rained torrentially all night and some rooms flooded, some had bed bugs, and someone slipped and fell in their room. We were supposed to stay here 4 nights!

Fortunately, our travel team came to the rescue working thru the night and found us a 4-star Western hotel in nearby Haridwar. It was clean and neat, and safe. The staff was very friendly and the food was good. (we spent I peaceful night there) We would head back to Delhi early to spend the last two nights at the Taj Mahal (5-star) hotel.

This hotel incident triggered all our “core issues” and brought us to an extreme low.

I was hungry, angry, lonely, and tired (and frightened) in that room!

We also found out we could have NO meat in this state.

Rishikesh Spiritual Connection

We took jeeps to Rishikesh and walked across the Ganga footbridge alongside hundreds of other worshippers. Walking thru the town was a whole other experience. We noticed the people seemed much more serene in this holy city—even the cows seemed happier, and the beggars were less aggressive.

We headed to a special ashram. Fr Leo and Shama arranged for us to have a private audience with Swami Chidanand, known throughout the world for his ground-breaking work in youth education, disaster relief, upliftment of women, interfaith harmony, and village reconstruction. He captivated us with his gentleness his resolve and his powerful message of love, forgiveness, non-violence and “being the light”. We were all mesmerized seated in a semi-circle facing him. Our groups ages are from 20s to 70s. He fielded such questions as How can all the worlds religions get along? and Are we born knowing “the way?”. He answered our questions with Zen-like stories.

He spoke of the Dharma and how it creates our karma. Dharma stands for duty, harmony, amity, righteousness, morality, and non-violence. We have the power to create and change our own destiny based upon our thoughts and actions.

Naturally, we wanted to stay longer but he had to leave us for daily 2:00 silent meditation.

Next, we gathered together in front of the Ganga—the Holy River, celebrating mother spirit.

We formed a circle and held hands while father Leo led us in prayer and poured holy water over us.

We watched worshippers bathe and do laundry, while cows came by for us to pet them.

I took a dip in the Ganga.

We noticed the people seemed much more serene in this holy city—even the cows seemed happier, and the beggars were less aggressive.

Haridwar

Haridwar is located in the foothills of the Himalayas, and considered to be one of India’s most sacred cities because Vishnu left his footmarks there.

Ganga Aanti

After checking into our new hotel in Haridwar, 22 of us left at 5:30 for a moving experience: Ganga Aanti. Every night at sundown, thousands of villagers and devotes gather on the banks of the river Ganga to pay homage to Mother Ganga.

Vendors were selling flowers, bindis (red forehead dots), empty water vessels and many other items.

At sundown, the bells sounded, flames were lit, and boats of flowers were unleashed into the river. Hundreds of tiny boats filled with colorful flowers lined the Ganga. We each lit the flame in our boats filled with flowers and released them to the mighty river.

The next morning, some in the group got massages at the hotel and some of us took pedicabs into town to the bazaar. What struck me is that they do not bargain here. All prices are fixed. There was relief knowing we did not have to use drama or manipulation to play the bargaining game. Obviously, they avoid confrontation and are far less motivated by profits in this holy city.

I noticed that since we experienced that horrible hotel, and it got resolved, we seem to be much lighter since our travel team resolved the problem to the best of their ability. They are a great team (Shama, Anita, Fr Leo, and Michael). We are so grateful to be in a clean hotel now!

Shama, who owns Rama tours is so attentive—she even arranges to have birthday cakes for those celebrating. We will be guests in her home here tomorrow!

The bus ride to Delhi was much more relaxing and even the rest stop was nice with CLEAN MODERN toilets!

We shared more of our life stories and told jokes.

We begin every day reading the Buddhist Prayer together.

We stopped for Chinese dinner!

5-Star Splendor

At 11PM, we arrived at our magnificent Taj Mahal hotel in Delhi. It is *****!! The turbaned, uniformed, white-gloved guards opened the doors for us, a women placed rose petal bindis on our foreheads, and jasmine leis around our necks. Everything is fragrant here.

My room is spectacular with all nice amenities including robe, slippers, chocolates, and dessert cake.

I am in heaven!

Breakfast service was exceptional! They attended all our needs. There are even attentive attendants in the lobby bathrooms.

We are off to see Delhi today—including the Ghandi museum and a Hindu temple!

Please forgive the typos.

Namaste

Karla in India

Taj Mahal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2007-09-25T08:49:00.002-05:00

Hi Family and Friends!

I had one of my most awesome travel experiences in life today!

It was seeing the most beautiful building in the world: The Taj Mahal, The Monument to Love.

It took my breath away!

The Story

When King Shah Jahan’s Queen was pregnant with his 14th child, she foresaw her death and asked her husband to build a monument in her honor—symbolizing his love for her. She died that year (1631) and he began construction on memorial to his beloved.

He collected white marble and semi-precious stones from all over the world and assembled a team of the finest architects to undertake the project. It took 20, 000 laborers 22 years to complete the project.

This white marble structure with its perfect classical proportions, qualifies as one of the 7 wonders of the modern world.

The King decided to build a Black Marble monument across the river.

Sadly, one of the kings sons, out of greed, sought to prevent his father from spending his inheritance on another $$multilmillion$$ project. To this end, he imprisoned his father in a room inside the Agra Fort. The room had balconies with unobstructed views of the beloved Taj Mahal.

He died, 8 years later, still imprisoned, on the balcony, staring at the Taj.

By The Way, Taj Mahal means Crown Palace.

I took many photos and a professional photographer took photos of me. I purchased 5 8X10s for $10.

The Wedding Ceremony

Father Leo arranged to perform a wedding ceremony for Marty and Rosie in front of the Taj Mahal. We found a spot just to the left of the entrance to the park. Eight other couples also lined up to join them in a “commitment ceremony”. He read beautiful poetry and commitment verses to the couples. We were all moved to tears. Anita, our tour guide, says she had never, in all her years, seen such a “show”.

Marty and Rosie both have long gray hair and blue eyes. They had clothing made in Jaipur. They were a radiant couple. Everyone wanted to photograph them.

Rest of Day

4 of us (Margie, Sharon, Shannon, and I) later toured the Agra Fort with Anita (the others returned to the hotel) We took two pedicabs there, thru the bustling streets. We were up close and personal with Agra life. (Just like the Rickshaw rides in Delhi, Hanoi, and Beijing)

Tonight we had a commitment ceremony dinner. Peisha (mother of Kathryn Mc Fee (IDOL winner) sang.

Tomorrow, we will drive to Delhi; take a train to Haridwar, and a bus to Rishikesh. (worldwide home of yoga). We will spend the next 4 nights in Rishikesh.

Only 5 more nights in India, sadly.

There we will experience night time ceremonies on the Ganges River and visit ashrams. Our hotel is situated right on the river. Our pace will slow down considerably.

Namaste!

Karla in India

Snake Charmers, Elephant Rides, and Royal Palaces India Letter # 4

2007-09-24T21:13:00.004-05:00

Snake Charmers, Elephant Rides, and Royal Palaces

India Day 3 Jaipur

video of Jaipur markets from motorcoach:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIer1ShvnBE

Letter #4

Hello Friends and Family!

Life is exhilarating!

Tuesday we drove from Delhi to Jaipur, the Pink City, located in Rajistan which is 2/3 dessert. That is why they have camels galore here! Most beautiful are the dazzling, colorful saris worn by the women in an array of jeweled colors.

Yesterday, we began the day driving thru the lively bazaars, ascending a hill via decorated elephant to tour the Amber Fort, and then visiting the Maharaja’s Palace. The Amber Fort, situated atop a hill overlooking the city, was built in 1592 and is influenced by both the Muslim and Hindu style of architecture. At the maharaja’s palace, we saw private art collections; observed royal artists painting with a single hair of squirrels tail, and saw regal uniformed guards protecting the palaces. One of the highlights of the day was seeing a snake charmer. I even took a photograph with him.

The vendors at the Agra Fort were the most aggressive and persistent I have EVER encountered. They swooped down on us, surrounded us, and chased us throughout the day even. Before I climbed the hill (on elephant) a vendor tried to sell me a hat for 500 rupees ($10). I declined and he proceeded to follow me up the hill, repeatedly throwing the hat up onto my platform seat. I would throw it back down; he would throw it back lowering the price to 400Rup, 300 Rup, 200 Rup, then finally 100 rupees. I still declined though it was very funny.

We met a young Sikh couple (with baby girl) in the lobby and had an informative and open discussion with them about our respective cultures. We even looked through marriage personals ad section to see how marriage candidates advertise for brides and grooms. Arranged marriages are still practiced by 75% of the population—100% in remote rural areas.

So far, no rain, no mosquitoes, no stomach problems (for me.)

Yesterday, we drove from Jaipur, to Agra, home of the Taj Majal.

Cows are pets here and were made sacred in order to preserve the species. Muslims rulers use slaughters so many cows that they were becoming extinct.

Driving thru the towns and villages provides a documentary on contrasts in living. Most live in abject poverty, working as farmers or roadside workers. Yet, the people wave and smile their beautiful smiles at our tour bus.

Lots of beggars approach when we stop. We had many near misses in traffic.

There are more than 100 different turbans worn in Rajistan alone. The colors are dazzling! They protect the head from the sun and dessert sand.

Corey lost his wallet and passport on day 1 and is heading to the American Embassy in Delhi to secure a temporary document today. We must be careful!

Today, WE WILL SEE THE TAJ MAHAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Namaste!

Karla in India

snake charmer video I found onyou tube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P29j7WC9do8&feature=related

Delhi Delight India Day 1

2007-09-22T20:43:00.001-05:00

Delhi Delight Day 1
Letter #3

Hi Family and Friends

When they say that nothing can prepare you for the assault on the senses that India brings, they are telling the truth!

From the moment we set out on our journey of Delhi today, we were bombarded with contrasts that overwhelmed our senses. From:

Opulence to extreme poverty
Chaos to serenity
Color to monochrome
Sadness to joy
Aggression to timidity
Honesty to deception
Shocking to familiar
Grandiosity to humility
Decay to new birth
All in the course of a few hours.

I looked into the eyes of many Indians and felt I was witness to their collective pain, triumph, and growth.

India never disappoints.

After feasting on a sumptuous breakfast buffet at our Taj Palace Hotel, we departed from our hotel in two tour buses for a day-long tour of both Old and New Delhi

Father Leo’s leads us with a Buddhist prayer each day and a word of the day. Today the word is “flexibility”.

We were graced with Anita, a superb tour guide who was the official tour guide for Chelsea Clinton and her grandmother. She was impressed by how poised, gracious, and down-to-earth Chelsea is. She says President Clinton is a very “attractive personality”.

Anita is knowledgeable, charming, and funny.

Throughout the day, our eyes savored scenes new to us: of men getting hair cuts road side, men walking their goats, women in colorful saris waiting for a bus, dentists performing dental procedures, mothers carrying an enfant while pleading with us with an outstretched hand, colorful clothes drying on lines, monkey scurrying about, sacred cows meandering (known as “highway queens”), men urinating, (adorable) children performing acrobatic tricks for tour bus passengers at stoplights for $$$, men bathing in fountains, uniformed school girls walking hand and hand, hundreds of men kneeling in prayer outside full mosques at prayer time,…the list of unfamiliar scenes becomes familiar as the day moves forward.

The roads are chaotic harmony. The pot pourri of motorbikes, trucks, rickshaws, carts, bikes, construction vehicles, manual and automatic cars and others coexist with disorderly order. Surprisingly, there are an extremely low number of traffic incidents.

Our first stop in Old Delhi was The Red Fort, one of the grandest palaces of the East that inspired the design of the Taj Mahal. Next, we took Rickshaw Rides (28 in all) in pairs thru a typical bazaar with narrow lanes, diverse merchants, and that was brewing with activity.

It was a feast for the eyes, ears, nose, and soul. We were up close and personal with traditional life.

Next, we visited Jama Masjidithe, the largest Mosque in all India. I actually photographed men at prayer inside the mosque!

We had to remove our shoes and I thought my feet would melt into the pavement—it was such a hot day.

Next we had a moving experience at Rag Ghat, a ceremonial park” where Gandhi was cremated. On sacred ground, barefoot, our group held hands forming a large circle while we meditated to Father Leo’s prayer of peace. We then kneeled toward Gandhi and meditated on his powerful message of harmony and love.

Each time we returned to our tour bus, we were extremely grateful to be handed bottles of cold water. It is HOT here!

In the afternoon, we toured New Delhi including the Parliament Buildings and Connaught Place.

Included in our tour was a visit to a carpet merchant where we received a demonstration of the dying trade. India subsidizes this trade by hiring carpet making directly from Kashmir to promote their products. The proud tour guides were a pleasure to watch. They unfolded one carpet more bedazzling that the next!

Finally, we visited the Qutab Minar complex, containing the tallest stone structure in India.

We returned to our hotel where I took a much-needed two-hour nap.

For dinner, we went to a traditional Indian restaurant where we feasted on multiple succulent Indian dishes. We occupied almost the entire restaurant where we sat at tables of 5-8. The service was impeccable, the food was the best Indian food I had ever had, and some formerly squeamish about Indian food are now converts.

I had great company with Margie, Marty, Rosie, and Marlene.

White-gloved door men welcomed us back to our hotel.

Robbie made arrangement to perform in the lounge. He is a classical guitarist who performs regularly in Las Vegas. He played a wide range of numbers from flamenco to Marvin Gaye—all melodious, all soothing, and all universally appreciated.

Robbyleblanc.com

We are all bonding very well. I am glad we are wearing name tags.

Everyone who has traveled with Father Leo before marvels at how well designed the tours are.

Tomorrow, we will head to Jaipur, a 5-hour drive, where we will spend the next two nights.

Namaste!

Karla in India

15-hour Flight To India

2007-09-20T22:04:00.000-05:00

Hi Family and Friends

It is my first morning in Delhi after a long day and night of travel. I just had some of the sumptuous breakfast buffet in our luxury hotel, The Taj Palace.

My flight 15-hour was made easier by reading some of A Fine Balance, a Pulitzer-Prize winning novel set in India in 1975; watching Indian and American films; sleeping; dining; and talking with a beautiful Indian woman seated next to me.

While at O’Hare, I enjoyed my last Angus beef burger with blue cheese-- since we will only be petting cows in India.

Most of our group met up on Chicago or Delhi airports. All our luggage arrived on time and going thru customs was surprisingly swift and hassle-free.

Many in our group have traveled with Father Leo before to Viet Nam, China, or Mexico. Marty, our Viet Nam vet, from my Viet Nam trip is here with his girlfriend, Rose. Father Leo will marry them in front of the Taj Mahal next week!

I am excited to see what unfolds during our first day in Delhi!

Namaste!

Karla in India

Pike's Market in Seattle June 2007

2007-06-22T19:30:00.000-05:00

I am in Seattle for my little brother's wedding. The bride's aunt, a nun, is on retreat, praying for good weather with 150 other nuns. We are convinced that the power of prayer gave us sunny days and a cloud-free wedding.

Here I am enjoying one of the most spectacular places in the world: Pike's Market Place. It is a feast for the eyes, ears, tastes buds, and nose.

Pikes Market Video:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7666930089986135189

Chad, my little brother, just became a captain on Seattle's Duck Tours. He gave an animated show that was informative, engaging, amusing and full of wit.

Duck Tour Video:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-875094768235038252

Chad Wiesenfeld and Christina Mason got married on June 22, 2007 at 7PM in Seattle.

Wedding Video:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3517441486758898770

Wedding Reception Video:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8626257278561705524&hl=en

Four generations from Chicago, Manhattan, Upstate New York, Seattle, and Miami assembled.

4 Generations of Family Video:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3297937833621576671

Johnny and I had fun together.

Video:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5826527554540123893

India is next!

2007-06-16T21:36:00.001-05:00

Father Leo, with home I traveled to Vietnam and Thailand in 2005, will take a group to India this fall September 19 through October 1, 2007.

I decided to finally bite the bullet and secure my airline tickets from the US to India. I used frequent flyer points to secure a direct flight on American airlines from Chicago to Delhi.

Now, I look forward to planning to visit this exotic, majestic, spiritual land!

Here are some shots and a video I found on youtube:

Taj Mahal

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEfTsndcmiI

Traffic

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjrEQaG5jPM