Sunday, May 6, 2012

Istanbul

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Here I am with new friends



Istanbul
Karla and Ozlem (our tour guide)



I experienced one of the most wonderful visits to one of the most historically significant cities in the world.  I chocked as much into a day and a half as is possible and found every minute invigorating.  For 2 days, we visited Istanbul, the only city in the world, which straddles both Asia and Europe (split in two by the Bosporus Straights).



A special aspect of the visit was having spectacular views (from our ship) overlooking the Bosporus Straight (and Golden Horn) of key sites including Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and The Blue Mosque with its 6 minarets.  I had breakfast and dinner overlooking this spectacular water view.



Because Istanbul IS a port city, we had easy access from the ship.  Within minutes (or a short tram ride) a cruise passenger can enjoy major sites.  On our second day, I took the tram from Trophane to Eminonu, to begin my tour. I loved the frenetic energy of the city and felt comfortable touring around on my own, day 2.



Touring around, I felt the glory/power of this once mighty city that served as capital of two of the world’s most powerful empires Byzantine (for 900+ years) and Ottoman Empire (for 600+ years).  The Ottoman Empire was an economic, military, and religious powerhouse that ruled a huge chunk of the world spanning, Europe, Asia, and Africa from the 14th till the 20th century.



As we docked in Istanbul in the early morning, we were greeted by a robust and lively folk band of musicians dressed in traditional Turkish decorative uniforms.  I was able to zoom in and capture great close ups of them right from my private balcony.



I met my private tour group (of threee couples I met online) in our usual spot, across from the tour desk on deck 3.



We joined our tour guide, Ozlem (ozlemaydin33@gmail.com), who directed us to our bus, whose driver took us directly to the site-filled area: Sultanahmet.  Sultanahmet is the Old Town, where the city’s top landmarks are concentrated---including Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, The Blue Mosque, The Basilica Cisterns, Hippodrome Square, and the nearby The Grand Bazaar.



Here are some comments/reflections about my time in Istanbul:



We only used the bus twice: at the beginning and end of our day.  Traffic was very congested (a new James Bond movie was being filmed) and the Old Town is best explored on foot.



Sultanahmet Park, situated between the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, provides a great photo opp for both grand structures.



The Hagia Sophia is one of the most impressive buildings in the world and the crowning achievement of the Byzantine Empire.  Constructed by Emperor Justinian during the 6th century, it remained the largest basilica in the world for centuries and the remains the worlds 4th largest ever built.  It served as the Patriarchal church of Constantinople nearly a millennium until the Ottomans captured Constantinople in 1453.  Although the Ottoman Turks were Muslim, they were so captivated by the cathedral’s grand scale and beauty, they chose to preserve rather than destroy it.  Instead, they converted it to a mosque adding minarets, covering Christian mosaics and frescoes with Islamic artwork, and adding an imam’s pulpit and mihrab facing Mecca, among its many modifications.  After the secular Republic of Turkey was established, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a museum in 1936.  As a result, many (well-preserved), original Christian frescoes, which had been plastered over with whitewash, were uncovered and are now on display.  The eight iconic 24-ft wide leather medallions with Arabic calligraphy continue to dominate the apse, center and arches above the imperial gate. 



The Blue Mosque was the first mosque outside Mecca to have six minarets, likely a display of the Sultan’s wealth.  In order to avoid upstaging the central mosque in Mecca, which had six minarets, Sultan Ahmet I financed construction of a  seventh minaret there.  Construction of this mosque marks the beginning of the Ottoman Empire’s decline because it exhausted the treasury that was never restored due to a succession of wars and incompetent rulers.



I saw the famous Medusa heads in the underground Basilica Cistern (the vast, dimly-lit, former underground water reservoir, built in the 6th century).



The Waterway intersection of The Golden Horn, Bosporus Straight, and Sea of Marmara is one of the busiest in the world.  There was a continuous flow of ferry, barge, commercial ship, cruise ship etc. traffic.  With its spectacular views, it’s no wonder that Sultan Mehmet The Conqueror chose to this prime location on which to build his Topkapi palace.



We had a delectable and inexpensive lunch at Buhara 93 (Nakilbend Caddesi 15-near the Hippodrome).  I ordered the chicken Kebab with rice and salad for 8 or 9TL.  They have open wood-fired ovens where you can watch men baking the famous lavas (flat bread).  (It really is mentioned in Rick Steve’s guide, as their sign says)




I found the vendors at the Grand Bazaar (and Spice market) to be in-your-face aggressive.  The whole experience can be a bit overwhelming at first, but, the loud, colorful, crowded covered malls grow on you after a while.  The opening line in Turkish bazaars is always, “Where are you from”?  I am always delighted when vendors cannot guess where I am from since they are generally skilled at discerning the heritage of tourists. My favorite line was, “How can I hassle you today?”.  My favorite sign was “Real Fake Watches Sold Here”. There are more than 4000 stalls in a maze of streets in the grand bazaar selling carpets, ceramics, jewelry (gold, silver, precious/semi-precious stone, byzantine replicas), textiles, copperware, mosaics, spices, Turkish handicrafts, clothing, water pipes, Turkish delights, Evil eye merchandise, and of course, souvenirs, and more. 

 
















On my next visit, I will go to the bustling Taksim Square and Istikal Cadessi (Street) via the tram and funicular.





Thursday, May 3, 2012

Santorini, Greece--The Picture Perfect Island


Santorini, Greece

Today, I visited the Geek Island of Santorini where I saw some of the most exquisite natural beauty I have ever seen.  A popular reason for coming to Santorini is for its legendary views of sunsets, some of the most spectacular in the world

Santorini, named for St Irene, contains 13 communities perched atop cliffs formed by volcanos.  All feature white-washed buildings, blue domed churches, stepped streets, and sun-drenched terraces. The lush landscape is filled with vineyards, fig trees, caves, and churches

Ships tender passengers to the port of Skala Fira, a sheer 1000 feet below the capital of Fira.  To reach the top, one has 3 choices: climb (up or down later) the 588 zigzagging steps, ride one of the hundreds of mules up,  or take the cable car, (built only in 1982).  I was on the bus to Fira and opted to take the clean and modern cable car down to the ship.
Our tour began as we were tendered to the port of Athinios where we boarded buses to begin our tour.  Our first stop was a Cliffside vineyard that gives winemaking and wine tasting tours.  Most important were the spectacular views of the caldera and turquoise Mediterranean sea.  Our ship, The Equinox, featured prominently in views of the azure sea.

Oia

Next, we drove to the village of Oia made world famous by the iconic photos of the blue-domed white washed church.  It is known for its breathtaking sunsets and stunning views of the sea and sun-kissed white-washed buildings. 
Fira

Fira is the capital,  whose white cobblestone streets bustle with shops, tavernas, hotels and cafes, while clinging to the rim of the caldera nine hundred feet above the its port.
As I explored Fira, I had one of the most delectable gyros ever!
Here are some facts about Santorini I learned from our tour guide:

--It has more than 400 churches, many privately owned by families who only open them for special occasions.
--Santorini is small with a population of only 15,000 residents who host one million tourists per year.
--Santorini’s unemployment is close to zero.
--The cable car linking the port to the Capital, Fira was constructed in 1982.  Prior to that year, there were 2 methods of climbing up : walking the 588 steps or riding a donkey up
--Known for its prolific wine industry producing dozens of varieties, Santorini is known to produce more wine than water. 

There is beautiful countryside where tradition still survives. Cave houses (both abandoned and occupied), gardens, vineyards, small family business, and tiny churches are there to be discovered.

Perhaps on my next visit, I will be brave enough to climb the 588 zigzagging steps to the top or to ride one of the fearless donkeys.



Places Where I Have Traveled *=more than once

  • India
  • China
  • Dubai
  • Israel
  • Russia*
  • Iceland
  • Cuba Aug 2016
  • Egypt*
  • Indonesia
  • Tahiti Feb 2016
  • Northern Ireland
  • Cook Islands Feb 2016
  • New Zealand Feb 2016
  • Australia Feb 2016
  • Belize
  • French Polynesia Jan 2016
  • Mallorca
  • Shetland Islands
  • Faroe Islands
  • Brunei
  • Morocco*
  • Brazil*
  • Philippines
  • North Borneo
  • Crete*
  • Ionian Islands*
  • Singapore
  • Hong Kong
  • Azores*
  • Norway
  • Dodecanese Islands (Rhodes)
  • Bosnia
  • Palestein
  • Croatia
  • Romania
  • Argentina
  • Ecuador
  • Tunisia
  • Corsica
  • Bulgaria
  • Columbia
  • Peru
  • Montenegro
  • Columbia
  • Chile*
  • United Arab Emirates
  • Uruguay
  • Jordan
  • Gibraltar
  • Turkey*
  • Bermuda
  • Estonia*
  • Viet Nam
  • Finland*
  • Malta*
  • Thailand
  • Guatemala
  • Crete*
  • Jamaica*
  • Panama*
  • Grand Canyon
  • Scotland
  • Niagara Falls
  • Greece*
  • France* lived there
  • Japan*
  • Bilbao, Spain*
  • Canada*
  • Costa Rica
  • Bahamas*
  • Banff Hot Springs
  • Hawaii*
  • Italy*
  • Catalina Island
  • Luxembourg*
  • St Johns
  • St Marteen/St Martin
  • St Thomas
  • South Padre Island Texas
  • Mexico*
  • Vatican City*
  • Austria*
  • Denmark*
  • Monaco
  • Portugal*
  • Belgium*
  • Holland*
  • Ireland*
  • Alaska
  • England*
  • Sweden*
  • Switzerland*
  • Spain*
  • Germany*
  • Madeira

Events/Experiences

  • Pyramids at Giza
  • Taj Mahal
  • Climbed Great Wall of China
  • Western Wall-Jerusalem
  • Transited Panama Canal 3X
  • Rode Camel in Tunisia
  • fathom Adonia--1st US cruise ship to Cuba--Aug 2016
  • Old Town in Havana
  • Burj Kalifa in Dubai
  • Saw Kangeroos, Wallabees, and Koalas in Australia
  • Kayaked in Bay of Islands, New Zealand
  • Vaparreto # 1 in Venice
  • National Museum in Brunei
  • Saw Geysers Erupt in Iceland
  • Drink at Raffles Hotel-Singapore
  • Fish Spa in Greece and Philippines
  • The Peak in Hong Kong
  • Pedicab Tour in Manilla Philippines
  • Road Amalfi Coast, Italy
  • Chewed Gum in Singapore
  • Marched in St Pat's Day Parade in Dublin
  • Sailed Kotor Bay
  • Old Bridge in Mostar, Bosnia
  • Smithsonian Museums-DC
  • Toured Ancient City of Petra, Jordan
  • Transited Suez Canal
  • Rio for Carnivale 2X
  • Cruised along Cinque Terre, Italy
  • Fish Spa in Corfu, Greece (teeny fish scrubbed my feet!)
  • Subway in Russia
  • Flash Mob (dance) on stage on several cruises
  • Visted 21 Countries on 5 long cruises in 2012
  • Ceviche in Peru
  • Cremation Service in Bali
  • Saw Lamas in Lima
  • Vasa Museum-Stockholm
  • Buddhist Monastery in Viet Nam
  • Drove Amalfi Coast
  • Queen Mary 2
  • Berlin Wall
  • Mummies In Cairo Museum
  • Jordan River; Sea of Galilee
  • Hot Air Balloon Ride Over Luxor at Sunrise
  • Transited the Pirate-Infested Gulf of Aden
  • Ski Dubai
  • Fellucca Ride on the Nile at Sunset
  • 16-day Europe/Transatlantic on Queen Victoria
  • Tahrir Square-Cairo
  • Toured Pompeii
  • In Fashion Show Aboard Queen Victoria
  • Rode Elephants in Thailand and India
  • 7-Country Baltic Cruise
  • Hermitage Museum
  • Checkpoint Charlie
  • Transatlantic Crossing on QM2
  • Climbed Tikal in Guatemala
  • Mediterranean Cruise 6 countries
  • Audience with Swami in Rishikesh, India
  • Poetry Class in France
  • Kissed Blarney Stone
  • Pike's Fish Market in Seattle
  • Photo with Snake Charmer in India
  • Dacau near Munich
  • Hitchhiked from France to Scotland
  • Climbed Washington Monument in DC
  • Oktoberfest in Bavaria
  • Toured Panama Canal
  • Wine Country in France, California and many others
  • Guest of Placido Domingo in Chicago
  • The Alamo
  • United Nations
  • San Diego Zoo
  • Helicopter over Grand Canyon
  • Club Med in Cancun
  • Eurailpassed Twice Thru Europe
  • Hollywood
  • Albuquerque Hot-Air Balloon Festival
  • Rodeo in Dallas/Ft Worth
  • NCAA Playoffs in Charlotte and New Orleans
  • Cucchi Tunnels in Viet Nam
  • Grammys in New York
  • Paella in Spain
  • Rain Forest in Costa Rica
  • Xmas Tree Lighting Ceremony on 5th Avenue
  • Niagara Falls
  • Disney Land & Disney World
  • Voodoo Museum New Orleans
  • Cancun Jazz Festival
  • Reggae Sunsplash in Jamaica
  • Las Vegas for Trade Shows
  • Key West for Hemmingway Festival
  • Art Classes in Louvre
  • Black Ski Summit in Vail and Colorado Springs
  • Texas State Fair
  • Mardi Gras in New Orleans
  • Italian Class in France
  • Nude Sunbathing in St Marteen
  • Danish Pastry in Denmark
  • Palace of Knossos Crete
  • Anne Frank House Amsterdam
  • Karaoke in Japan
  • Leaning Tower of Pisa
  • Lobster in Maine
  • Belfast Black Cab Tour
  • Dozens of Transatlantic Sailings